Asian bao coming to city

The joy of discovering world cuisines may be in the ultimate familiarity with what other cultures and traditions bring to the world table. And so it was when a successful restaurateur brought old family recipes to his new restaurant.

This new restaurant serves a specialty food popular in China, but it is not a “Chinese” restaurant. Called Tom’s BaoBao, its unique brand of street food is interesting, flavorful and familiar all at the same time.

A bao, or steamed bun, is similar to a dumpling, but larger and created with a yeast-based dough that rises. “Bao” in Chinese and Vietnamese simply means “bun” or “bread.” Bao can be savory or sweet and can be enjoyed from breakfast through the entire day. Three make a substantial portion for a meal. They are wildly popular in university towns throughout China.

The founder of Tom’s BaoBao is Chinese entrepreneur Tom Tong, who is adapting his line of successful restaurants for the United States – starting with Providence. Tong, the CEO, briefly visited the U.S. in preparation for the launch of his restaurants this spring.

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He refers to his business model as “progressive entrepreneurship” – from paying higher wages than the industry average, to intensive employee training. “Every one of our employees is an ambassador for our whole culture,” said Tong. Quite a statement in a segment of the industry not noted for engaged staffers. His vision goes beyond his restaurants.

“Our philosophy of integrity and community development will drive our employees and partners to be the best at what they do and will help Rhode Island’s economy grow stronger,” he said. Nothing succeeds like success, as the saying goes. Tom’s BaoBao fans in China eat more than one-quarter million bao a day.

Tong has refined the street food and has mainstreamed it in China. However, bao has been served in America for at least the past two decades. In New York City, chef Eddie Huang is considered one of the masters of bao.

Huang appeared on my radio show in New York back in 2011 to talk about his restaurant Baohaus. He explained how at the core of bao is Asian sugar dough that is white and steamed. The fillings are savory, which as we all know goes very well with a bit of sweetness.

One of the most popular flavor combinations regardless of the type of cuisine is that sweet-salty combination. This is not lost on Tong. In China, he conducted market research for four years, studying what people ate so he could engineer a bao-making system that would train every employee to be an expert in his or her craft.

Tom’s BaoBao will seat as many as 50 and feature a theater-style kitchen. Public bao-making classes will be offered.

Economically, the restaurant’s impact could be significant considering its size. Approximately 20-25 jobs will be created, with another five to 10 positions off­site to make the bao fillings.

Tom’s BaoBao will be located in the Kinsley Building on Westminster Street in downtown Providence, near Roger Williams University, Johnson & Wales University and the University of Rhode Island’s downtown campuses.

A second location in Massachusetts also has been announced. Ingredients will be sourced locally for the varieties of bao that will be offered on the menu, including vegan and beef.

The company has been running R&D operations out of Hope & Main, the nonprofit food incubator in Warren. The chefs and management team traveled to China for three months to learn the authentic process of making bao. They will pass on their expertise to employees, who will be trained at Hope & Main, before beginning work at the Providence and Cambridge, Mass., stores.

“Food is a gateway to culture,” said Rosamond Lu, chief operating officer of Tom’s BaoBao. “We want to introduce and educate Rhode Islanders, who are already attuned to rich culinary traditions, about authentic and healthy types of Chinese food that they may not have experienced.” •

Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out talk radio show is heard on 920 WHJJ-AM, 1540 WADK-AM and on mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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