Eateries freshen looks

REFINED  PALATE:  McCormick and Schmick's Managing Director Joe Battafarano said that with the restaurant relaunching, standards remain high. / PBN PHOTO/ JAIME LOWE
REFINED PALATE: McCormick and Schmick's Managing Director Joe Battafarano said that with the restaurant relaunching, standards remain high. / PBN PHOTO/ JAIME LOWE

The restaurant scene in Providence, as in the rest of Rhode Island, remains vibrant. In any of the city’s restaurant rows can be found new tastes, new chefs, new takes and new looks. It is all part of the fabric of a successful, popular dining destination. New looks can accomplish quite a lot.

Recently, a downtown restaurant that has quietly become a fixture across from Providence City Hall, McCormick and Schmick’s, underwent a “makeover” which turned into a “relaunch” and then an “unveiling.”

Interestingly enough, just a couple of blocks away, another downtown fixture is completing preparations for a relaunch. This restaurant, the Capital Grille, is moving to an entirely new space. Both eateries share some things in common. Both are part of national chains and both have strong connections with Providence in the circumstances surrounding their founding.

McCormick and Schmick’s relaunched in Providence in April. Managing Director Joe Battafarano explained the thought process behind the changes.

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McCormick & Schmick’s is located in the historic Providence Biltmore Hotel where, as a young man, McCormick worked as an automobile valet in the days when that meant washing and in some cases servicing the customer’s car. The chain’s reputation of serving the freshest seafood possible is still paramount. The company McCormick founded is no more; the restaurants having been acquired by the large Landry’s group with numerous nameplates from Joe’s Stone Crab to the venerable Chart House. Still, the legendary lengths to which the eatery goes to serve fresh product are still in play.

Battafarano told me the standards are still high but now appeal to the increased knowledge on the part of those of us who dine out often. The Providence executive chef, Squire Davidson, is in his kitchen at 6 a.m. to go over the fresh catch available for the day from local suppliers. These days, lobster is king, along with Rhode Island Beavertail oysters, mussels and Atlantic cod.

New, brighter carpeting and upholstered seating have been added to McCormick and Schmick’s main dining area. The dark wood columns and tables remain, recalling the grand hotel dining-room era when Bill McCormick began his career.

Not far away, the Capital Grille is on the move. The pioneering steakhouse chain capturing the “work hard, play hard” ethos of the late ’80s has outgrown its spot in the old Union Station complex and is just about to move into larger quarters.

The new home will be the former location of Ruth’s Chris steakhouse overlooking the basin at Waterplace Park, in the IGT (formerly GTECH) building. Managing partner Chris Phillips told Providence Business News last fall that the move is in order to capitalize on new opportunities in an improving economy, including wedding receptions.

The new site will incorporate the former Ruth’s Chris existing patio space overlooking Waterplace Park, which Phillips said will accommodate bigger outdoor events. There are no plans to change the Capital Grille’s menu with the move, which is still on schedule to take place this coming July. •

Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” talk radio show is heard on 920 WHJJ-AM, 1540 WADK-AM and on mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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