In R.I. eatery names often local, personal

There are two new restaurants in our dining-destination state that are each in the early stages of opening. Both are located in the midst of established restaurant rows in cities at opposite ends of Rhode Island.
Both occupy spaces in which other restaurants had been located. Neither one, however, is located in one of those so-called “cursed” locations in which multiple restaurants had tried and failed. Both are owner-operated – meaning that the proprietor is on the premises every day. Both are unique, one-of-a-kind eateries. One serves, for the most part, one style of food while the other is featuring a menu that encompasses dishes from a variety of disciplines. And both have names with stories sure to inspire table talk among each establishment’s customers.
Naming restaurants is big business in the food-service industry. Owners can and sometimes do spend large sums of money to pay marketing research firms to come up with just the right moniker. Others will pester family members and friends endlessly with combinations of names, words or phrases in an effort to hit on the one that will “click” with guests.
Rosalina is the appealing, ear-catching name of a new Italian spot in Providence opened earlier this spring in the former Cuban Revolution space on Aborn Street by two newcomers to the business. Described by its designer as an Italian “taverna” – derived from a Latin word which means a small restaurant, Rosalina is named after the young daughter of one of its two owners. Chef-owner Lauren Lynch said in a response to an online review that she “specifically created a menu of Italian dishes that reflected what I grew up eating.” Rosalina’s menu features traditional favorites such as pastas, as well as dishes designed for sharing. These are popular, especially at the convivial bar that has begun to be a regular stop by the downtown professional crowd that has discovered Rosalina during what used to be called “happy hour.”
Caleb & Broad opened its doors in May in Newport. Owned by Rich Willis, who has more than a decade of restaurant experience under his belt, this new spot is located in the midst of the burgeoning restaurant row that Broadway has become in the City by the Sea. The name comes from the side street next to the restaurant – Caleb Earl Street – which intersects with Broadway. But Willis looked to his new neighborhood for more than just the inspiration for the name of his business. “I grew up on this island,” he said, while putting the finishing touches on his dining room before opening.
“I give all tribute to the ones who were here first,” he said, referring to the owners of nearby Salvation Café, Malt, Norey’s and The Fifth Element. They subscribe to the theory that a new restaurant located in a restaurant row is good for business; the old “rising tide lifts all boats” maxim.
For his part, Willis’ vision of his menu is affordable, familiar, low and slow. He has a rotisserie for slowly cooking whole chicken. His ribs will be braised for hours. His new chef, Ryan Loevan, like Willis, comes from the corporate restaurant and banquet world, a solid background for learning efficient restaurant operating systems.
An online search of new restaurants across the country finds descriptions such as a seafood spot located in a former bank (been there, done that twice in Rhode Island); two different restaurants with one kitchen (the secret of one of the longest-tenured Newport restaurant’s success) and one place that announces it is part of a ramen renaissance (which has reached Providence). And they are named after everything and everyone, from the owner to an Italian word which translates to “rebel” (for a non-Italian restaurant), to the street that runs through New York’s Chinatown for a place located over 700 miles away.
In Providence and Newport, restaurant names come from closer to home. And that philosophy can be seen day to day at both places. At Rosalina, two of the guests on a recent Thursday night were the proprietors of Blaze who are friends of Lauren Lynch. And at Caleb & Broad, Rich Willis is adopting a local charity each month to donate partial proceeds of sales from his dessert menu. These are philosophies that we who dine out often can relate to. Here’s to their success. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard on WADK-AM 1540, WHJJ-AM 920, WBLQ-AM 1230, online and through mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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