Late chef’s menu an inspiration locally

LIVING TRIBUTE: Nick Rabar, chef/owner of Avenue N American Kitchen and The Pantry, cites the late Charlie Trotter as an inspiration for his work. / PBN FILE PHOTO/DAVID LEVESQUE
LIVING TRIBUTE: Nick Rabar, chef/owner of Avenue N American Kitchen and The Pantry, cites the late Charlie Trotter as an inspiration for his work. / PBN FILE PHOTO/DAVID LEVESQUE

When chef Charlie Trotter passed away suddenly in early November at the age of 54, he left a legacy of changing our tastes in American dining. Trotter was influential over a quarter-century ago in creating a revolutionary style of dining out that is still in vogue today. Trotter perfected the multicourse tasting menu, a radical departure from the standard three-course meal. Over an evening, diners are dazzled by flavors and presentations which hopscotch the globe – sometimes on one plate.
Asian spices and flavors might be mingled with Midwestern beef carpaccio or a single New England scallop. Five, seven or even nine courses later, everyone is pleasantly full not only from the food but from the knowledge that the experience is one not soon to be forgotten.
A select number of chefs here in Rhode Island serve a tasting menu. Derek Wagner offers a set of instructions with the gustatory excursion at his Nick’s On Broadway. Quoting from his online menu description: “The chef creates and prepares a special four-course menu for you. You may choose to have four savory courses, or three savory courses and cheese or dessert for your fourth course. Please inform [us] of any strong likes or dislikes, allergies, dietary restrictions or food sensitivities so that the chef may take them into consideration when designing your menu.”
Wagner insists that the entire table participate in the tasting menu together. These instructions are themselves an homage to Trotter’s exacting standards and discipline he demanded of himself and his staff. There are many stories – more now following the chef’s passing – of his painstaking, sometimes obsessive attention to detail. Trotter would insist his servers know to the nth degree the likes and dislikes of regular customers. He is said to have ordered servers and bussers to affix tape to the bottom of their shoes so the carpet would be de-linted as they walked. A soup he created was described as “containing seemingly hundreds of vegetable cubes, each precisely diced to perhaps one-sixteenth-of-an-inch square.”
Trotter’s menu was an inspiration to one local chef who made a pilgrimage to dine at Charlie Trotter’s table in Chicago. Chef Nick Rabar of Avenue N American Kitchen and The Pantry in East Providence has a large, loyal following for his bistro-style, a la carte menu of uncomplicated dishes created from familiar fresh, local ingredients. Rabar’s menu has favorites from Point Judith calamari to free-range chicken and Rumford dumplings – as in the famed baking powder once manufactured in the building that now houses the restaurant.
“I dined at his restaurant and had the pleasure of meeting [Trotter] in Chicago many years ago,” Rabar recalled on my radio show. “When I was much younger, I read his cookbooks for inspiration,” he continued. “What a forward thinker. What an innovator!” Rabar praised the late chef for revolutionizing the concept of multicourse dining and for being the inspiration for many other notable chefs. Trotter’s kitchen was a required stop along the way for many of the best-known celebrity chefs, including Emeril Lagasse, Marcus Samuelsson and Graham Elliot, who according to one account, was brought to tears by the military-level of precision that Trotter required.
Other local restaurants offering a multicourse tasting menu include Castle Hill Inn in Newport, where chef Karsten Hart offers a five-to-eight course Degustation Menu with offerings including Matunuck oysters, Rose Hill Farm butternut-squash veloute with prosciutto di Parma, pan-seared local fluke over more Matunuck oysters in a stew, and butter-poached Maine lobster served in the style of a New England clambake. This is before a cheese course and chocolate soufflé. Hart pairs wines with his tasting menus as do some other chefs. Wagner at Nick’s On Broadway leaves wine choices up to the diner, although suggestions are made. In the spirit of the tasting menu, it is customarily offered at one price with wine selections premade and a slightly lower price without wines. The Spiced Pear at the Chanler is the tasting menu I have had the most experience with. It can be served at the exclusive Chef’s Table just outside the open kitchen with its huge Bonnet stove. Chef Tom Duffy offers his tasting menu on a couple of different levels. His “Chef’s Tasting” consists of six courses, from an heirloom tomato salad to a soufflé. Duffy’s “Gourmand Tasting” has no menu description and can be done in six or nine courses. Both menus are offered with or without wine selections and the wine option is described as “experienced,” meaning your experience will be enhanced by your own wine knowledge.
The late Charlie Trotter was inspired by rustic dining experiences in Europe that until the 1980’s were virtually nonexistent in this country. His vision led to the food revolution we are part of today. Interestingly enough, the premise even through all the chef’s preparations and details is quite simple: Put your palate in the chef’s hands for an evening. You will never regret it. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard on WADK-AM 1540, WHJJ-AM 920 and online and mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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