Matthew Reilly

 / PBN PHOTO/KATE WHITNEY LUCEY
/ PBN PHOTO/KATE WHITNEY LUCEY

For Matthew Reilly, 25, who has been cooking since he was 15, taking over the kitchen as executive chef at Malt in Newport has been the realization of a dream.

Born in Connecticut but having grown up in Narragansett, Reilly earned an associate degree in baking and pastry in 2010 from the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vt. Work at the Marriott in Providence from 2010 to 2012 led to a job as a line cook in 2012 at 22 Bowen’s at Bowen’s Wharf in Newport.

Hired in late 2012 as a line cook at Malt, he stepped into a “power vacuum” when the executive chef left in February 2013.

“I’ve had all these ideas sitting around and I now have a platform,” Reilly said. “The owners gave me the reins and the customers really responded.”

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As a young manager, Reilly says he strives to provide a balanced work environment and let staff work out ideas so they feel like part of a family. So far, he said, the response has been positive.

His first day leading the kitchen, he had to make use of a case of chicken thighs, and his coq au vin recipe proved the perfect vehicle for that.

“The owner asked me to come in early,” he said. “We had to write a menu, prep and produce it, just the two of us.” It was so popular, he added, “I haven’t been able to take it off the menu.” n

Dining when not cooking: Benjamin’s Restaurant in Newport

Most admired living chef: Jacques Torres of Jacques Torres Chocolate in New York City

Why Rhode Island? On this side of the bridge, it’s iconic and the food scene is gigantic

Most complex dish: Trying to get the risotto perfect, so it’s not mushy

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