“Marty [Lyons] is a rising star in the Providence culinary sky,” said John Elkhay, the self-described maestro of the Chow Fun Food Group. For someone like Elkhay to offer such effusive praise might put a bit of pressure on a new chef. But as Lyons, XO Café’s new executive chef, and I sat at the intimate restaurant on North Main Street, it was certainly not evident. As we chatted amidst the early week preparations that must take place at any dinner restaurant, he was the picture of calm. More
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