Staying on cue

2016 was a very good year for Rhode Island restaurants and chefs. Chef and restaurateur Ben Sukle’s latest venture, Oberlin, was named one of the best new restaurants in the nation by Bon Appétit magazine.

This is by no means the first time Providence’s dining scene has received national recognition. All year long, it seemed every few weeks in 2016 some part of our state was being saluted for its food by one publication or website or another. Bon Appétit’s review was a bona fide one, meaning it was done by a senior member of the editorial staff – editor Andrew Knowlton. Why is this significant? Too often, cities like Providence – read that “anywhere not within sight of NYC” – are represented in the national food press by freelance writers who have no real connection to the publication or its readers. Knowlton raved about everything at Oberlin, from the sake list to the house-made pasta. I especially enjoyed reading that Knowlton liked the Strozzapreti Carbonara with radishes. There is a great story about this pasta that was not included in the review. It was told to me by a restaurateur friend from Italy who ran a very nice place on Providence’s East Side, Pizzico, that has since changed hands. The dense noodle’s name means “strangle the priest”: In the old country, there was a local priest who favored a village restaurant and routinely ate his fill, much to the dismay of the owner who kept running out of food. The pasta was meant to fill the priest to the choking point at Sunday lunch so he wouldn’t overindulge on the roast that followed.

Another way in which the restaurant scene grew up in 2016 was a story that came out at year’s end. Preppy Pig BBQ, which had won a “best of” award, abruptly closed its doors at both the restaurant’s Warren and Jamestown locations. Both locations promptly reopened under different ownership as Pink Pig BBQ. This is more in line with how changes in the restaurant landscape are reported on in other major food cities. Restaurants come and go. The business is dynamic and ever-changing, even among eateries that retain names and remain at the same location.

This year will be one of more changes and much more excitement. The owners of Milk Money and the Thirsty Beaver recently opened Drift, a new restaurant inside the renovated Hilton Garden Inn at India Point Park in Providence, a seafood-focused restaurant. The BBQ scene will be hot this winter. GottaQ Smokehouse BBQ has opened its second Cumberland location. The main restaurant is located at 2000 Mendon Road. GottaQ also offers catering and food truck and barbecue trailer service.

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The owners of Tavolo Wine Bar and Restaurant in Smithfield opened a new restaurant, Tavolo Wine Bar and Tuscan Grille, at 289 Atwells Ave. on Federal Hill.

The food writer from New York says he will be back soon dining out in the Ocean State. That is something we can all agree on. •

Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio show is heard on 1540 WADK-AM, wadk.com and the TuneIn mobile application. Email bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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