Stomaching menu labeling

An issue that some restaurateurs and chefs are keeping an eye on may affect one of the first interactions you and I have when we dine out, namely the menu. Especially in chef-centric restaurants, which include most of the nearly 3,000 eating and drinking establishments in Rhode Island, the menu is the chef’s signature. It reflects his or her philosophy and personality, while inviting and enticing us to try something new or settle in with a favorite dish.

According to an industry advocacy group, some restaurants may have an unwelcome co-author writing the menu – the government. In late 2014, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration issued its final rules to implement a national menu-labeling standard, as required by the Affordable Care Act.

These menu-labeling rules require restaurants with 20 or more locations to post in-store menu boards, with nutrition information for all food items. While this new regulation would not affect the majority of restaurants in the state, it could become problematic for places like pizza or donut shops offering varied menu items.

According to estimates from the American Pizza Community, an industry coalition, Domino’s Pizza, Inc. would be required to display calorie and fat counts, as well as other nutrition guidelines for 34 million combinations of pizza. (Think of the “Nutrition Facts” we have become accustomed to seeing on packaged food items.)

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The group points out that since many pizza shops conduct 90 percent of their business over the phone or online, these boards are neither practical nor helpful because most customers won’t see them.

The FDA has already delayed implementation of the requirements twice. Industry observers have stated the agency would prefer Congress provide a workable solution. In February, the House passed the bipartisan Common Sense Nutrition Disclosure Act of 2015. This bill would allow the nutritional information to be provided to consumers at the point of purchase, such as online. The bill is now in the Senate.

One local restaurateur who would not be affected by such a regulation nonetheless has been keeping tabs on it. Ted Karousos is the proprietor of the Blue Plate Diner in Middletown. Karousos says a change is needed, but not in this way.

“What should happen is the consumer needs to be educated to make better choices when dining out,” he said. He uses portion sizes as an example. “Why not have menus with three options for portion size, so the decision is made by the guest, not the government?”

The American Pizza Community called the proposal “one-size-fits-all regulations that do little to enhance customer knowledge and create an undue burden on the backs of small-business owners.”

Here in Rhode Island, this is a curious story. Keep in mind this is the state that has sent packing chains that are successful in other parts of the U.S., such as Red Lobster, Tim Horton’s, Krispy Kreme, Hooters and others. On the other hand, well-run national operations such as Panera Bread and newcomer Sonic are very successful here, primarily due to their philosophy of running their eateries as though they were standalone operations. •

Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out talk radio show is heard on 920 WHJJ-AM, 1540 WADK-AM and on mobile applications. He can be reached by email at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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