Where ‘no one grows old’

RESTAURANT MENUS ARE meant to be read from the top down, left to right. There are some in the restaurant industry who make lots of money advising restaurateurs to list specials or other attention-getting items on the menu about one-third of the way down on the left.But at Simone’s, chef Joe Simone’s new eatery in Warren, one of the best things one will read on his menu is near the bottom. It is one of my favorite Italian expressions: “A tavola non s’invecchia.” Translated, it means, “At table, no one grows old.” A lovely sentiment and a glimpse into the philosophy of Simone’s brought across town from his last venture, Sunnyside Café. Joe cooks what he refers to as an “olive oil menu,” which provides another look at his philosophy. “Not that we don’t love butter and cream,” he declared as we sat at a small, raised counter in his bright dining room on a recent midwinter afternoon. “But, my guests appreciate that we use it sparingly and not in every dish.” Simone is conscious of how often his guests dine out and wants them to feel good about what they order in his restaurant. He is constantly aware of how much his guests know about food. “They study food!” he exclaimed. “I appreciate tremendously the [increased] interest, especially in local food, in fresh food produced by local farmers.” The chef says this awareness enables him to create for his menu things that are more interesting to him. He also appreciates the opportunity he has to help local farmers by doing business with them. Simone brings another part of his philosophy, to bridge the gap between the farmer and the restaurant guest.A recent example was a warm eggplant sformato, which Simone brought back from a recent trip to Florence, Italy. He dined at a friend’s restaurant where a signature dish was eggplant – “melanzane” on the Florentine menu – prepared in a terrine-style pan which shapes the finished dish. The eggplant is sliced, floured lightly then quickly fried until tender. It is then stacked in the terrine with pomorola, the Tuscan version of marinara, with added garden vegetables for a sweet, yet hearty flavor with herbs and parsley. It is baked and then finished with a wedge of Divine Providence cheese from Narragansett Creamery. In addition to keeping the connection between guest and farmer, the chef empowers his staff to, as he puts it, “do the right thing for the guest.” Everyone who works at the restaurant is held accountable but “we celebrate the pride that we take in the job that we do.” Towards that end, there is another important note near the bottom of Simone’s menu – no substitutions. His guests seem to be fine with that and put themselves in his hands. As a toast or as words to live by, Simone’s expression is worth keeping at the ready. We who dine out often will find ourselves at table over the course of a year with strangers, friends and family. Let’s keep a good thought. At your table, may no one grow old. n

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