Women in whites

Even in this day and age, many people still think it is unusual to find a female chef or restauranteur, though available data does not support the notion.

The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that there are more women managers and owners in the restaurant industry than any other profession. In fact, according to the bureau’s tabulations, half of the restaurants in the country are owned or co-owned by women.

In Rhode Island, some of the best-known eateries are owned and/or managed by women. A few well-known spots that come to mind include The Dorrance, CAV, Gracie’s and Clean Plate in Providence, Aunt Carrie’s in Point Judith and Ella’s Fine Food in Westerly. Then there are those owned by partnerships of men and women – many of whom are married to each other – such as Chez Pascal, Red Fin Crudo, Tavolo Wine Bar and Al Forno, which was started by Johanne Killeen and her late husband, George Germon.

It was not long ago that there was a long-held belief (among men) that women were not and could never be physically equal. Celebrity chef Sara Moulton stated on the Culinary Institute of America’s website that when she first attended the CIA, “some of the male faculty maintained that women couldn’t do the physical work in the kitchen. But soon chefs saw that the women worked hard, focused more and could lift those large stockpots. In fact, we excelled.”

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Moulton believes that there are more opportunities for women in the industry today.

Women chefs and sommeliers were spotlighted recently at the Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival. The new producer decided to bring a brigade of well-known women chefs to put on a special dinner called “Women In Whites.” The dinner party would pair the top-flight wines being showcased at the festival with creatively prepared and interpreted food courses to complement not only the wines but the individual styles of the ladies. The evening was hosted by Claudine Pepin, who appeared with her famous father, chef Jacques Pepin, all weekend at the gala tastings and events that made up the festival produced by the Preservation Society of Newport County.

Claudine Pépin introduced the lineup of all-star women chefs: Jody Adams, chef and proprietor of the new Trade, Porto and Saloniki in Boston and a Brown University graduate; Shelby Stevens, chef of Natalie’s in Camden, Maine; Mary Dumont, chef of Boston’s new Cultivar restaurant; Rachel Klein, a former Providence chef now with her own RFK Kitchen in Boston; Jennifer Jolie of Blackstone Caterers in Newport; and Annie B. Copps, food writer and instructor.

Each chef presented a dish inspired by Julia Child and creatively interpreted to showcase their individual styles.

There will doubtless be many more showcases for women chefs, who are instrumental in making many of the state’s great restaurants run every day. •

Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio show is heard on 1540 WADK-AM, wadk.com and the TuneIn mobile application. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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