Cashmere holds a coveted position in the world of textiles. But the quality of the luxurious fabric famed for its softness and warmth can vary greatly, leaving shoppers grappling with the question: Is all cashmere created equal?
The answer is no. While both “cheap” and “expensive” cashmere might carry the same label, the difference in their essence is vast. Let’s unravel the truth behind quality cashmere and provide a guide to making informed choices.
At the heart of the difference lies the fiber itself. Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, renowned for their resilience in harsh environments. However, the quality of the fiber depends on several factors.
Micron count. This measures the fiber thickness, with lower numbers indicating finer, softer fibers. Grade A cashmere boasts a micron count of 14-15 microns, while cheaper versions can range up to 19 microns, feeling noticeably coarser.
Fiber length. Longer fibers create smoother, stronger yarns, resulting in garments that drape beautifully and resist pilling, a common problem with shorter fibers.
Origin. The region where goats are raised influences the fiber’s quality. Inner Mongolian cashmere, known for its exceptional softness and length, is often considered the gold standard.
Spinning. High-quality mills use slower, more meticulous spinning techniques, preserving the fiber’s integrity and creating stronger, smoother yarns. Cheap cashmere often employs faster, harsher methods, leading to weaker yarns and potential pilling.
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LAYERED QUALITY: A nice cashmere shirt combined with an eight-ply cashmere vest offers comfort and warmth.
COURTESY COLUMBO CASHMERE[/caption]
Knitting. The type and tightness of the knit affect the garment’s drape, warmth and durability. High-quality cashmere employs intricate, denser knits, resulting in superior shape retention and longevity.
Dyeing. Cheaper cashmere might use harsh chemicals and processes that compromise the fiber’s natural softness and colorfastness. Reputable brands use gentler methods and high-quality dyes for vibrant, lasting colors.
Touch. High-quality cashmere feels incredibly soft and smooth against the skin, almost weightless. Cheaper versions might feel scratchy or rough, lacking the luxurious drape.
Visuals. Look for a uniform, even weave with a subtle luster. Cheap cashmere might have visible irregularities, uneven dye application, or a dull appearance.
Shape. High-quality cashmere retains its shape beautifully, even after multiple wears. Cheaper versions can stretch, sag and lose their form quickly.
Durability. Invest in quality, and you’ll reap the rewards. High-grade cashmere lasts for years with proper care, while cheap versions might pill excessively, fade quickly and require frequent replacements.
While price is often a good indicator, it’s not the only factor. Consider these additional points:
Brand reputation. Look for brands known for their commitment to quality and ethical sourcing.
Transparency. Brands confident in their product will provide detailed information about fiber origin, micron count and manufacturing processes.
Care labels. Proper care is crucial for any garment, but especially for high-quality cashmere. Look for clear care instructions and follow them diligently.
Understanding the differences between quality and cheap cashmere empowers you to make informed choices. Invest in quality, and you’ll be rewarded with a garment that feels luxurious, looks stunning and lasts for years.
Bonus Tip: Consider investing in fewer, high-quality cashmere pieces over multiple cheaper ones. This allows you to build a wardrobe that is luxurious, sustainable and cost-effective in the long run.
Marc A. Streisand is the owner of Marc Allen Fine Clothiers in Providence.
