We may be living in the golden age of pizza. Some experts who spend time closely monitoring and writing about the dish say so. As one observer put it, we are all pizza experts. We certainly all have our favorites, in large part centered around where the pizza was made and delivered or picked up.
One local pizza expert who is well qualified to talk about the honored place that pizzerias have in the food chain is Bill Kitsilis. He grew up in a pizza parlor and argues that it’s always been the golden age.
Kitsilis’ family started the famed Angelo’s Palace Pizza in Cumberland in 1978, where Kitsilis is now an owner. He also owns Antonio’s Pizza By The Slice locations in Pawtucket and on Providence’s East Side, as well as in Massachusetts. He says any pizzeria can become one’s personal favorite.
“When you move to somewhere new and you [try] a new pizza shop, you have a connection,” he said. “When you’re younger, you develop an emotional connection with the location and the product and that’s why I think it’s so special.”
Kitsilis insists this connection is regardless of the price point or the type of pizza. Whether bar pizza or Neapolitan pizza at a fancy restaurant, it is all about the emotional connection with the place. It may transcend the food, reminding us of a time when we would go with family, or share a pizza with college roommates. He pointed out the example of one of his shops near the campus of the University of Massachusetts in Amherst.
[caption id="attachment_459814" align="alignright" width="495"]
SPECIAL PLACE: Angelo’s Palace Pizza owners, foreground from left, Alexandra Kitsilis, Christine Kitsilis and Bill Kitsilis, pictured with their staff. Bill Kitsilis says pizzerias are special because people often develop emotional connections with them.
COURTESY ANGELO’S PALACE PIZZA[/caption]
Kitsilis sees the energy and has a mindset of taking care of his employees, so it’s easy to see how it becomes so natural to support the Little League team or the local gymnastics team, for example.
“We become part of the neighborhood and then, like a good neighbor, we always give something no matter how small or how big the organization is because we feel that connection to the community and it’s a win-win,” he said.
Kitsilis discussed two controversial pizza issues, including one that surfaced recently and one that is an ongoing debate.
Recently, the Rhode Island-centric version of pizza, known as bakery pizza, party pizza or pizza strips, came under the spotlight of a social media influencer. Although the individual is not involved with pizza or food, he sets out to enlarge his following by critiquing pizza made by small businesses. The review of the Rhode Island pizza strip was inconclusive.
As it turns out, it is also popular in other places such as Montreal, where it is sold in bakeries and called “cold pizza” or bakery pizza.
Kitsilis thinks it is a phenomenon.
“My daughter loves it,” he said. “It sits at room temperature for hours. You bring it home; you can leave it on the counter and still eat it … I’m amazed by that.”
Then there is the great divide. There are few foods that can bring on arguments or impassioned discourses such as ones that break out over pizza topped with pineapple. The pizza man laughed in acknowledgement.
“I mean, we’ve been doing ham and pineapple on our pizza forever,” Kitsilis said. “I have the old menu board for my parents from 1978 in our office … the first add-on to the menu was what we called The Hawaiian.”
The year was 1985.
“People thought that was so innovative to put a pineapple and sliced ham on a pizza,” he said.
Kitsilis compares those days to Antonio’s, which is known for serving countless combinations of toppings, many created by the kitchen crew.
“Today, we’re putting tortellini, pesto and tater tots on our slices,” he said.
Kitsilis comes back to the essence of his eateries and of hospitality and perhaps the secret of his success at Angelo’s and Antonio’s.
“You know, these are small independent operations,” he said. “Every interaction with the guest matters. Your customers aren’t easy anymore.”
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, is heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
