There are very few dishes in the Ocean State that can start conversations, even arguments, as a lobster roll can.
It is one of the first things summer diners look for and it stays a menu favorite right to the end of the season. Simply stated, the ingredients are lobster meat dressed into lobster salad with mayonnaise (or related) and seasonings, piled into a top-loading bun.
The story can begin with any of the ingredients. We will begin with the bun. It must be chosen carefully, as this can be a deal-breaker. Only a top-loading bun need apply. The short description is “New England-style hot dog bun.” Chefs’ standards will up the game, and sometimes will end it. Restaurateur Sean Smith, proprietor of 15 Point Road restaurant in Portsmouth, told this story during a radio interview with me. Chef Chris Maitland was readying his summer luncheon menu, to be served on the restaurant’s deck overlooking the Sakonnet River leading to Mount Hope Bay, opposite the Tiverton harbor village.
Lobsters had been delivered from local purveyor Tony’s Seafood and the lobster salad was being prepared. Maitland called his bakery supplier to see about the day’s delivery of bread and rolls he was expecting, especially a Rhode Island-designed top-loading, torpedo-style bun the chef found to be especially suited to his style. To his dismay, the baker informed him they were out of the torpedoes due to a production issue. Numerous substitutes were offered, but the chef was having none of it. He took the lobster roll off the menu that day. The baker has never missed a delivery since.
About the lobster. It is both the main ingredient and an afterthought, somewhat like the groom at a wedding. To a degree, it is taken for granted as long as it shows up. That does not mean it goes unnoticed. There are lobster-roll lovers who insist the salad should be chilled and dripping with mayonnaise. Other lobster-roll experts insist the lobster meat be sweet, in big chunks, not overly dressed, and the roll to be warm and dripping with butter. Mitchell Davis, chef and executive vice president of the James Beard Foundation, authored a lobster-roll recipe on the foundation’s website. He describes lobster rolls as “a strange concept” but acknowledges the combination of flavors and textures is “downright addictive.” His recipe calls for a variety of herbs to be added to cooked and chilled lobster meat – parsley, tarragon, chervil, chives – in addition to chopped celery, salt, pepper and mayo. The buns – “hot dog buns or potato rolls” – should be toasted on a skillet with butter, and the lobster salad should rest on a leaf of lettuce.
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FRESH CATCH: The lobster roll at Hemenway’s restaurant in Providence is made with fresh, steamed and hand-picked Maine lobster, which is tossed with crème fraiche, cucumber dressing, fresh herbs and lemon, and is served on a fresh-baked brioche roll with hand-cut zucchini chips.
/ COURTESY HEMENWAY’S/LUCAS PRESTON[/caption]
The rolls are everywhere, including at fine-dining restaurants. Hemenway’s lobster roll is made with fresh steamed and hand-picked Maine lobster, which is tossed with creme fraiche, cucumber dressing, fresh herbs and lemon. It is served on a fresh-baked brioche roll with hand-cut zucchini chips.
Some spots have a slightly different take. The lobster slider at Harry’s Bar and Burger in Newport is actually two rolls on toasted potato slider buns filled with chunks of lobster meat, lettuce, mayo and celery salt. But no celery – orders from the boss, “maestro” chef John Elkhay.
Just the mention of lobster rolls sets off a debate throughout the state. Everyone has an opinion on the perfect roll, even the chefs, on everything from what to add to just the right roll. On our side of the table, many judge the perfect roll on an overabundant portion of lobster. The preference seems to be more than the roll can hold. However, there seems to be agreement in this state the lobster is best served chilled. The warm lobster-roll debate starts at the Connecticut state line.
(Editor’s note: 15 Point Road is a sponsor of Bruce Newbury’s radio program.)
Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK, through various mobile applications and via smart speaker. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.
