The price and availability of lobster, particularly lobster meat, is causing consternation among diners and restaurateurs nationwide.
A combination of severe winter weather in March that iced over Canadian lobster fisheries, a forced decline in the lobster catch by American fishermen and a spike in demand from China have created the proverbial perfect storm and jacked up the price of lobster just in time for peak season. These days, as much as $15 per pound in the shell; out of the shell, dressed and served, about $50.
The price hike made news when the Boston Globe ran a story near the end of April about some Boston restaurateurs charging more for lobster rolls, with an eye-popping $49 menu price at one upscale Boston eatery on Marathon Monday.
The good news is that in Rhode Island, it is not quite as hype-worthy. The Newport Lobster Shack on the State Pier had blackboard prices of $11.50 per pound for hard-shell lobsters weighing under 1½ pounds. On its e-commerce website, the price for “chix” – lobsters weighing about 1 pound – was $13, not including shipping. Prices have risen markedly since last fall when they were unusually low but were last at this level as recently as 2015.
The favorite of most lobster fans is the quintessential lobster roll in the top-loading hot dog bun or the more-roomy torpedo roll. They are costing more these days but not at the level of our Boston neighbors. At the starting point of the price range is Newport’s famous Flo’s Clam Shack’s “lobsta roll” on the menu in late April for $16.95. Back on the Newport waterfront, The Mooring’s signature lobster croissant clocks in at $26, with its sibling restaurant Hemenway’s in Providence fetching $27 for its lobster salad roll.
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CULINARY COMPETITORS: A team of chef and food-service students from the William M. Davies, Jr. Career and Technical Center in Lincoln was one of two Rhode Island teams to compete in the finals of the National ProStart Invitational, a nationwide chef and restaurateur competition, held at the R.I. Convention Center in Providence in late April. From left, Ray McCue, chef instructor at Johnson & Wales University; Santos Nieves, chef instructor at Davies; students Victoria Carron, Fabian Vargas, Alexia Guzman and Britney Fernandez; Dale Veturini, president and CEO, Rhode Island Hospitality Association; and House Speaker Nicholas A. Mattiello. / COURTESY RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY EDUCATION FOUNDATION[/caption]
Providence returned to the national culinary spotlight as April ended. A prestigious nationwide chef and restaurateur competition held its finals at the R.I. Convention Center. More than $1 million in culinary-arts college scholarships was on the line in the National ProStart Invitational, the country’s premier secondary-school competition focused on restaurant management and culinary arts. The invitational with representatives from nearly every state was hosted by the Rhode Island Hospitality Education Foundation in cooperation with the National Restaurant Association Education Foundation. Annually, nearly 400 student competitors on school teams put their skills to the test.
Two teams competed from Rhode Island. A team of chef and food-service students from William M. Davies, Jr. Career and Technical Center in Lincoln represented the state in the culinary competition, in which each team of student chefs had to prepare a three-course meal using just two burners. The Davies team has competed on the state level in the past and has represented Rhode Island in the national finals.
In addition, there was a restaurant-management competition consisting of restaurant concept and design presentations, including design boards, floor plans, marketing plans and menu design. Rhode Island was represented in the management contest by East Providence Career and Technical Center.
The competitions had the feel of a live food reality show with Ted Allen of “Chopped” fame on hand to keynote the opening ceremony. A panel of judges from across the nation officiated. Among them were four Rhode Island chefs: chef Angie Armenise, executive chef of Blackie’s Bulldog Tavern in Smithfield; chef Karl Guggenmos from Culinary Solutions International in Cranston; chef instructor Ray McCue from Johnson & Wales University in Providence; and chef Karsten Hart, director of restaurants, Newport Restaurant Group.
Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK, through the TuneIn mobile app and via smart speaker. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.