Fifty pizzerias were recognized as the best in the U.S. by the publication 50 Top Pizza earlier this year, and they are still rightly celebrating the honor, including Rhode Island pizzaiolo Pasquale’s Pizzeria Napoletana in South Kingstown.
However, a lesser-ballyhooed list from the Italian guide should not be overlooked. In late July, 50 Top Pizza issued a supplementary honor roll, including an additional 33 independent pizza shops, singling them out as “Excellent Pizzerias.” The list spans the nation, from Seattle to Providence and Newport.
Rhode Island was represented by the iconic Al Forno restaurant in Providence and Mother Pizzeria – an emerging “must-eat” spot in Newport, with a second location in Providence.
Al Forno is well known in local circles as one of the first restaurants in Providence to achieve national and international recognition well before the culinary boom that swept in during the 1990s. Long ago, Al Forno was attracting fans from around the world to its trendsetting and groundbreaking grilled pizza, which was started and perfected in 1980 by chef-owners Johanne Killeen and the late George Germon.
“The pizza menu is small but well curated: the Margherita, with the perfect balance of mozzarella and tomato and a light dough with perfect cooking, is a must-try. Also delicious is the classic Pepperoni,” Top 50 Pizza said, adding that Al Forno provides warm service.
Mother Pizzeria is a neighborhood restaurant concept from co-owners Lauren Shaefer, Kyle Stamps and Kevin O’Donnell, who also serves as chef. The flagship location is at Long Wharf in downtown Newport.
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MASTER CHEF: Kevin O’Donnell is chef and co-owner of Mother Pizzeria in Newport, with a second location that opened in March at the new Track 15 food hall in Providence. The restaurant was recently recognized as an “Excellent Pizzeria” by 50 Top Pizza.
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“Mother is like a sourdough starter that gives life to a light, fragrant and well-risen dough. But also in a figurative sense as a place of family. The restaurant is cozy and warm, like going to ‘mom’s house,’ ” Top 50 Pizza said. “The pizza is inspired by Neapolitan style and is prepared with great skill. A tasty disc topped with fresh ingredients selected from the local farm.”
The pizza with vegetables and fresh egg, which “gives a nice creamy texture to the slice,” is a must-try, according to the publication.
“The menu is full of Italian flavor with cooked dishes, ice cream, cocktails and good wines,” Top 50 Pizza said. “The service is sparkling. It’s a place you’ll want to come back to with pleasure.”
Mother Pizzeria describes the restaurant as “a place to gather with family and friends and enjoy warm hospitality, food and drink in a casual and convivial atmosphere,” according to its website. “At the heart of our menu is the pizza which is made from naturally fermented dough using local stone ground flour and baked in a Marra Forni Neapolitan-style pizza oven.”
Mother Pizzeria opened a second location in March at the new Track 15 food hall at the former Union Station in downtown Providence, which recently launched a nonprofit night series, offering local nonprofit organizations the opportunity to celebrate the extraordinary work they do, free of charge.
Each Tuesday, Track 15 will donate its semi-private event space to a different nonprofit for two hours, as well as one drink ticket for beer or wine and small bites from its vendors for up to 50 attendees. Dates are first-come, first-served.
“It’s no secret that the nonprofit sector is facing a challenging period right now, ” said Track 15 owner Christpher Marsella. “Whether a morale-boosting party for staff, a thank you for donors, or a small fundraiser, we are happy to offer a space for groups to celebrate – and thank them for – the incredible work they do in our communities.”
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, is heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
