When food writers visit Rhode Island, the reviews are universally favorable. Many times, the kudos come with qualifiers – “Unexpected world-class cuisine in Providence!” or “For its size, Providence has restaurants on par with major cities!”
That may have been the case in the early years of the restaurant and food boom. There was a perfect storm of opportunity, ability and a ready consumer base of “foodies,” plus a prime location between Boston and New York. Add the seasonal attractions of Newport and southern Rhode Island and a ready workforce graduating from Johnson & Wales University and the state was poised for success. However, so were other New England cities – Hartford, Conn., Worcester, Mass., Portland, Maine, and Manchester, N.H., for example. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, these locales and Boston gave us a run for the money.
As we head into the third decade of the 21st century, we see a different picture. When trendsetting dining destinations are discussed, the list of cities has gotten shorter. Providence – which the food media considers inclusive of Rhode Island with the sometime exception of Newport – is on the short list, as is Portland and Portsmouth, N.H. Earlier this fall, the James Beard Foundation redrew its regions where chefs and restaurateurs would compete for its prestigious awards. New England has become its own jurisdiction exclusive of New York. This was considered a door-opener to area chefs who no longer faced high-profile competition from New York chefs.
[caption id="attachment_309341" align="aligncenter" width="696"]
SEA OF FOOD CHOICES: Lobster and other items are prepared at a clambake this past summer in Newport. Seafood has long been a specialty in Rhode Island, but other areas of the food industry have made recent strides in the Ocean State.
/ COURTESY MCGRATH CLAMBAKES INC.[/caption]
One aspect of our area maturing as a food destination is the ability of chefs and consumers to source locally. While the region always had a vibrant agricultural scene, especially where seafood is concerned, it was limited by size and seasonality. Now, thanks in part to demand driven by the “farm-to-table” movement and by climate change concerns, local growers and food artisans have risen to the challenge. This was brought home in early December by the opening of an ambitious food-growing facility in Providence that shows much promise. Gotham Greens Providence LLC rehabbed a former General Electric factory on Harris Avenue into a 110,000-square-foot greenhouse that will grow four types of lettuce.
Gotham Greens operators estimate that the greenhouse is expected to produce between 6 million and 10 million heads of lettuce annually. And the location will sell other products, such as salad dressings, herbs and pesto dips, the company said. The dressings are made in facilities in Brockton, Mass., and Brooklyn, N.Y. The manufacturing of these items may shift to Rhode Island in the future, but there are no definite plans.
The urban greenhouse is the latest addition to the food facilities in the state. Infinity Fresh Kitchen LLC opened in North Kingstown in October and produces leaf, grain and pasta salads, sandwiches, wraps and other items found in deli or grab-and-go sections of supermarkets. The facility will also begin to produce cut fruit and cut vegetables in 2020. And Rhode Island is already the headquarters of United Natural Foods Inc.
Over a decade ago, there were just shy of 3,000 restaurants in Rhode Island, according to industry figures. As 2019 nears an end, that number has increased slightly. All signs indicate that Rhode Island’s food industry will remain a vital and reliable sector of the economy.
Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK, on radio throughout New England, through various mobile applications and his podcast. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.
