Some restaurants are menu-driven, others price-driven. One of the newest downtown Providence restaurants describes itself as “neighborhood-driven.”
The new Sarto on Weybosset Street is a Rhode Island-inspired osteria and salumeria, serving rustic Italian fare and exploring regional cuisine as part of the fabric of Rhode Island – and they mean fabric.
Partner and executive chef Robert Andreozzi, a Rhode Island native, explained, “Sarto means ‘tailor.’ ” This space at the corner of Dorrance and Weybosset was a men’s tailor shop. All around the tiled dining room there are decorations that are reminders of the tailor shop and its artisans.
After graduating from Roger Williams University, Andreozzi attended culinary school at Johnson & Wales University in Denver. He went on to work at Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Del Posto Ristorante. Del Posto’s name translates to “of the place.” Andreozzi states his restaurant is a Rhode Island-inspired Italian eatery, yet the vibe is a neighborhood one that could easily translate to Manhattan.
He gives props to the chef-owners in Providence who have established their personalities, as well as the personalities of their restaurants: “Champe and Lisa [Spiedel of Persimmon], James [Mark of restaurant north,] Ben [Sukle] at Oberlin and birch, Derek [Wagner] at [Nick’s on Broadway], there are so many people who made this project so much easier for me doing regional Italian food!
[caption id="attachment_237594" align="aligncenter" width="696"]
NEIGHBORHOOD-DRIVEN: Robert Andreozzi, right, executive chef of newly opened Sarto on Weybosset Street in Providence, speaks about the “neighborhood-driven” restaurant, while from left, Brendan Chipley Roane, director of marketing for G Hospitality; Colin Geoffroy, president of Providence Capital and G Hospitality; City Council President David Salvatore; and Mayor Jorge O. Elorza look on.
/ COURTESY G HOSPITALITY/K. DUTRA PHOTOGRAPHY[/caption]
“The fact that they are as respected as they are and that we are all able to do this at this time [when the chef experience is understood and appreciated]. … I am able to cook the food I want to cook and be proud of it,” he said. “We can concentrate on accommodating our guests and giving them a completely new experience!”
The space lends itself to creativity, including the open kitchen that has been designed to be in the dining room, to be as the chef puts it, “part of the show.” Whether it is Andreozzi himself or one of his sous chefs in the spotlight in the open kitchen, Sarto’s guests are assured an interactive entertainment.
The signature dishes at Sarto’s are a classic example of rule No. 1 in any restaurant – the guests will always be the ones who decide success, by whether or not they enjoy what is on their plate.
Andreozzi acknowledges the overwhelming fan favorite for the first couple of weekends is the shareable Ravioli Doppio, a giant, single ravioli dominating the plate. The 4-by-2-inch behemoth has two fillings – braised oxtail, kabocha squash and rosemary granola.
Andreozzi says the handmade pastas are what he is most proud of. There are five currently on the menu. And for a conversation starter, as well as an appetite starter, fries Amatriciana. Sarto has a salumi menu of authentic Italian cured meats, sliced on a vintage 1940s slicer in a deli section of the osteria – the Italian word for small neighborhood restaurant.
Sarto, located at 86 Dorrance St., offers lunch Monday-Friday starting at 11:30 a.m., and dinner Tuesday-Saturday starting at 5 p.m. The full-service cafe is open for breakfast at 7:30 a.m.
Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK, through various mobile applications and via smart speaker. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.
