The White Horse Tavern, built in about 1650 and issued a tavern permit in 1673, has been a Newport landmark for hundreds of years. Paul Hogan, who purchased the tavern in March of last year, is only the sixth owner in its history, and every day, he faces the delicate task of balancing the historical and the contemporary.
Hogan, who is president of Hogan & Stone, a well-known real estate brokerage in Newport, brought in a new general manager in May, Gary Swanson, to help him with that task. Swanson, who used to work at Providence’s Barnsider Restaurants Corp., said his aim is to retain the feel, both in atmosphere and offerings, of the tavern, because becoming too modern would be a mistake.
“We have made some changes, though. We just put a patio in, brand new, which is al fresco dining, and people are loving it,” said Swanson. But that’s the biggest change the tavern has seen under his guidance. “It’s kind of like anything this old. It’s fully restored, but we’re trying to keep it the same as it was.”
Inside the tavern is seating for about 100 in five dimly lit dining rooms, some of which have original floorboards and furniture. On the walls, authentic Newport artifacts, documents and a French tapestry are on loan from the Newport Historical Preservation Society, which also regulates the colors of paint that can be used for the tavern.
Waiting to greet customers is maitre’d Peter Chabot, who’s worked at the tavern for 28 years, much of that time as a waiter and then as assistant manager.
“He knows everybody and anybody in town, all the clientele. Go anywhere in Newport and just mention his name, and people will know it,” said Swanson.
Chabot, too, is a Newport history buff. He runs two-hour tours, giving insight to the history, design and restoration of the tavern. When prompted, Chabot recalls when each addition was built, when the building fell into disrepair, who owned it – including a known pirate in 1702 – and during what years the tavern wasn’t allowed to sell alcohol.
Swanson is also becoming acquainted with the tavern’s history, including rumors of ghosts haunting the second-floor dining rooms. Historically, the building has been a stop for many, including some famous names, passing through Newport.
“There’s a lot of speculation about that,” said Swanson. “Because of the times, George Washington could have dined here. The possibilities are endless of who could have dined here over the years.”
Since he started, he’s been told by patrons that the tavern is their favorite restaurant, which is a motivation to strive for the best service, he said.
“We get people from all over the world coming in to eat. One woman mentioned that this was her favorite restaurant in the world. I asked her what her second favorite was and she mentioned a restaurant in Paris, so that’s a lot to live up to,” said Swanson.
In the kitchen, Executive Chef David Dean’s grilled New England lobster, complete with wasabi aioli and fresh chives for $48, is a customer favorite. And the house specialty, the $39 Individual Beef Wellington, is served a la perigourdine – with truffles – and has been for a long time, said Swanson.
“People come here for the food – it’s fine dining – and they expect good service. It’s tuxedo service, and I think people get their money’s worth,” said Swanson. “This is the place they bring people when they want to impress them.”
Being a floor manager with Barnsider wasn’t much different than managing the historical tavern, Swanson said, because customer service is still the key element for success.
“The restaurant business is the restaurant business,” he said. “It doesn’t matter where the restaurant is located; it’s making sure the people get what they came for.”
Because of the building’s history, some patrons stop by just to get their photos taken at one of the two bars. The original bar is downstairs, within the original footprint of the tavern, and the other was built upstairs in 1978 and is open during weekends or for corporate functions.
The restaurant’s centerpiece is a chimney with a 22-square-foot footprint and four fireplaces, in each of which at least two fires are lit during the winter months. It’s that atmosphere that customers are looking for, Swanson said. And it’s for that reason that the early winter, from September to December, is the restaurant’s busiest time of year.
“It’s because with these fireplaces, in the wintertime, it’s very romantic,” said Swanson. •
