Brent Ryan remembers contacting R.I. Commerce Corp. five or six years ago and encouraging them to highlight Ocean State-produced craft beers in the Rhode Island house at the annual Eastern States Exposition fair held in West Springfield, Mass.
Earlier this year, Commerce contacted Ryan, the founder of 18-year-old Newport Storm Brewing, to let him know he’ll finally get his wish. The layout for the Rhode Island house at the 2017 Big E fair that will take place from Sept. 15 to Oct. 1 will include space set aside for the R.I. Brewer’s Guild, of which Ryan is president.
Ryan described the local industry as a “vibrant, growing brewing community” and not a “one-trick pony. “Aside from light beer, I can’t think of a single type of beer a restaurant would be looking for that they can’t get from a Rhode Island brewer.
“Beer tourism is a really big thing now and [Commerce] wants to promote Rhode Island as a place to visit and experience all of these beers,” he said.
Most industry observers agree, the effort by the state to shed more light on the local craft-brewing industry at this year’s Big E comes at a time when, to a degree, the dining industry – restaurants and bars – is making a point to list Rhode Island-produced craft beers on their menus.
While some restaurants and bars Ryan has visited across the country carry only local brews from that region, Rhode Island isn’t quite there, he said.
Ryan explained Rhode Island bars with 10 or 15 taps usually offer one, maybe two, local brews. But, that doesn’t discourage him.
“We’d love to be in a state [such as] Maine, Vermont, Colorado or Washington where they only sell [local] beer. Since we’re not, there’s plenty of opportunity to get [Rhode Island] beer into a place without kicking out another local beer,” he said.
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CLEAN TANKS: From left, Josh Dunlap, co-owner of Whalers Brewing Co. in South Kingstown, looks on as co-owner Wes Staschke and brewer Chris Smith use an ATP tester to make sure the fermenting tanks are clean. / PBN PHOTO/MICHAEL SALERNO[/caption]
Opened in South Kingstown in 2011, Whalers Brewing Co. produces beers sold at more than 250 bars and restaurants – as well as approximately 80 liquor stores – in the Ocean State, said co-owner Josh Dunlap, who is proud to “bring manufacturing back to the state.”
From his experience, Dunlap said dining businesses seek out locally produced alcohol not because it’s a “trend” but because it’s “cultural.”
“People certainly care more about what’s on their plate and where it comes from and what’s in their beer and where it comes from” today, he said.
While he described the national craft-brewing industry as “saturated,” Dunlap said the littlest state in the nation enjoys a fairly uncompetitive environment, for now. What he’s witnessed so far is a preference for Rhode Island brewers at restaurants “focused on dining,” whereas beer bars diversify, featuring labels from Connecticut and Massachusetts.
When restaurants and bars decide to incorporate local brews on their menu, they’re doing so with three factors in mind, said Jeremy Duffy, co-founder and managing partner of Isle Brewers Guild in Pawtucket: “local, quality and variation.”
Warren’s Chomp Kitchen and Drinks and The Malted Barley in Providence are examples of what Duffy called “craft restaurants,” where local brews are embraced.
Agreeing with Ryan, however, he said “tap lines are the gold standard and it’s not the easiest thing to get.” As restaurants continuously rotate brews to keep their menu fresh, they create a “competitive environment,” said Duffy.
Mike Repucci, owner of Sons of Liberty Spirits Co., has his feet in two camps.
Similar to Whalers, SOL opened in South Kingstown in 2011. Known for award-winning spirits, its beer production dates back six years but the company received its brewing license in September 2016 and started selling beer this year.
While he knows more about the local spirits market, Repucci described his overall experience as a “craft producer” in Rhode Island as “not a zero-sum game.”
Breaking into the craft-beer industry, Repucci said competition among brewers is “a little tougher” than Rhode Island-based distillers. But, he said, “beer has been ahead of the group for a while” and that interest in local spirits was piqued 18 months ago.
Agreeing with Dunlap, he said interest in local alcohol has to fit with the restaurant’s ethos to be successful – not everyone is open to the idea. Some people think “local equals craft and craft equals more expensive,” he said, and “if their consumers don’t care, why are they going to serve it?”
Brightening the spotlight on the state’s craft-brewing industry is good news, said David Dadekian – owner and founder of Eat Drink RI – but he is concerned about ensuring promotion of other Rhode Island-specific foods that may attract just as many tourists.
“Our beers are fantastic, but so are those from Massachusetts and Vermont,” he said, but the Bay State and Green Mountain State aren’t home to stuffies, weiners or coffee milk. “We want people to come to Rhode Island for multiple things, not just beer.”
As for incorporation into restaurant and bar menus, that comes down to signing with a good distributor, said Dadekian.
“Small producers don’t have the brand recognition,” he said, and “restaurants need to serve what sells … that’s the reality of economics.”
