Small state, big portions

A key component of a Rhode Island restaurant recommendation from the guest point of view is portion size. We do put a premium on abbondanza, the catchall Italian word that translated means plenty, abundance and wealth – as in a wealth of knowledge.

The idea is to get more than our share, to have something extra. Even before Yelp, a glowing word-of-mouth review always included a description of how a particular restaurant’s serving size was so big there was enough to take home and have the leftovers for lunch the following day.

This was perhaps a reason why the tapas concept was slow to catch on in Rhode Island. The idea of paying for a full portion of food but only being served a few bites was almost sacrilege. It was not until some savvy restaurateurs such as the LaMoia brothers in Providence’s Silver Lake neighborhood in the early 2000s hit on the idea of appetizer plates for two to be shared that the concept finally enjoyed success.

With this as a backdrop, news came that one of the best-known U.S. restaurateurs is cutting portion sizes as a way to be a bit more consumer friendly. Tom Colicchio, well-known as the head judge of the reality TV show “Top Chef,” and proprietor of a number of well-known eateries – including until a year ago Craftsteak at Foxwoods, now closed – is also cutting prices and the $145 tasting menu at his New York restaurant Colicchio & Sons.

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This is more than just discount dining. The menu at Colicchio & Sons will no longer have the traditional appetizer-entree-dessert selections, a la carte as in a steakhouse. Instead, there will be a selection of what are called “midsized plates” priced at $14-$32. For comparison, on the old menu, appetizers were $26-$39, entrees $39-$46.

Protein sizes have been reduced. Colicchio will now serve a 3-to-5-ounce portion, down from the current 6-7 ounces. “High-quality protein is crazy expensive these days. If you want to buy a high-quality product and if you want to keep the prices down, something’s gotta give,” Colicchio told the website Eater.

This appears to be part of a trend. A neighboring restaurant in New York, for example, serves a hanger steak for $22. In addition to his cost analysis, the celebrity chef is basing his new philosophy on his own habits. He told Eater that when he and his wife dine out, they order five appetizers between them instead of entrees.

How might this trend play back home in Rhode Island? One veteran restaurateur says we who dine out often need not worry. Bill Andrews has captured the spirit of his dining mainstay Leon’s in a cozy location in Barrington. He calls his neighborhood spot Leon’s Kitchenworx. His approach is back to basics and affordable. Andrews is running a scratch kitchen, baking his own bread and rolls, marinating his own mushrooms, pickling peppers. He has brought back signature dishes such as his authentic Federal Hill-style calamari appetizer that may be shared.

Although they have never met, Andrews’ and Colicchio’s viewpoints are similar. On portion size, Andrews starts out with a larger size than does the celebrity chef. Andrews’ goal is to serve a plate that will satisfy his guest for that meal. Colicchio had a similar answer when asked about the issue of large servings versus food waste. As he told Eater, “Thirty percent of our food is wasted. One way [to combat that] is smaller portions where people finish everything.”

Colicchio is aware of a change in his clientele. He sees a younger diner coming to his place these days.

For his part, Andrews has always catered to diners with diverse palates.

A current favorite is an Italian take on grilled cheese with a bit of the classic Monte Cristo – Mozzarella en Carozza – which he prepared on a recent local television appearance. And the portion size is up to Rhode Island standards. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” talk radio show can be heard on 920 WHJJ-AM, 1540 WADK-AM and on mobile applications. He can be reached by email at
bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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