PROVIDENCE — Claire’s says two unidentified labs found no asbestos in their cosmetics, but the researcher of Scientific Analytical Institute lab in Greensboro, N.C. who reported it stands by his tests showing the cancer-causing substance in 12 of the retailer’s products sold in nine cities, including Providence, pointing to electron microscope photos he used in his analysis.
“We are pleased to report that test results received to date from two certified independent labs confirm that the products in question are asbestos free, completely safe and meet all government requirements. As we said previously, we also confirmed that the talc ingredient that is used in the cosmetics was sourced from Merck KGaA and is asbestos free. Any report that suggests that the products are not safe is totally false,” Claire’s said in a release last month.
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Claire’s also said it confirmed the talc ingredient used in the cosmetics was sourced from Merck KGaA and is asbestos free. The company said it is sending Merck KGaA’s certificates of analysis and the results from the two labs to Health Canada and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
The company did not identify the labs that conducted the follow-up tests in the release, and did not respond to a request for the names of the labs by press time.
“More importantly, they did not say what tests they used,” said Sean Fitzgerald, Director of Research & Legal Services at the Greensboro lab, and performed the tests that showed asbestos in the samples.
Fitzgerald said he used an Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) electron microscope to look for signs of asbestos in the samples, some of which were not easy to find. If the other labs had been looking with an X-ray reflector, or a polarized light microscope, for instance, Fitzgerald said, it’s likely they would not have been able to see the asbestos.
Frank Ehrenfeld III, laboratory director and vice president of International Asbestos Testing Laboratories in Mt. Laurel, New Jersey, said an electron microscope is the best tool to find asbestos.
“In my opinion, not just electron microscopy, but specifically Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) is the current best available analytical tool to classify asbestos minerals,” Ehrenfeld said.
Fitzgerald said he is “100 percent confident” that his results are accurate.
“I’m the guy who did the tests. I saw it. It’s there,” Fitzgerald said.
Fitzgerald said his lab is international Organization for Standardization, or ISO, certified for testing of asbestos, usually in talc products, but not specifically for searching for asbestos in cosmetics, since that certification does not exist. He said an important gauge for the veracity of Claire’s testing would be what sort of ISO certification their labs have.
Claire’s also stated in their release that Fitzgerald has not provided detailed information on his results.
“That’s blatantly false, as well,” Fitzgerald said.
Fitzgerald said he has provided Claire’s and the press detailed records of his findings, including the electron microscopy images of the samples where he found asbestos, via a dropbox file.
While discussing one image, “Claires RI 1714838_1_Blue Tremolite_3.jpg,” taken from blue glitter found in the Aqua Glitter product purchased at Claire’s in the Providence Place Mall, Fitzgerald pointed out the long stick-like object, which he said is fibrous asbestos.
Asbestos is regulated by the FDA, which prohibits its use in talc products. However, the FDA does not regulate asbestos used in cosmetics, said Lauren Sucher, press officer at the FDA office of media relations. The FDA considers asbestos a known carcinogen, and considers it unacceptable for cosmetic talc to be contaminated with asbestos. Cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, do not have to undergo FDA review.
“FDA monitors for potential safety problems with cosmetic products on the market and takes action when needed to protect public health. Before we can take such action against a cosmetic, we need sound scientific data to show that it is harmful under its intended use,” according to the FDA website.
“The FDA is actively working on the current situation involving Claire’s Stores, Inc. and will provide additional information as it becomes available,” said Sucher.
Fitzgerald pointed out the asbestos fiber found in the sample is, according to the scale in the image, about 15 microns long by 0.5 microns wide. That gives the object an aspect ratio (width versus height) of 1 – 30, he said.
“It’s countable by any method as asbestos,” Fitzgerald said.
Claire’s, a national jewelry and accessory retailer for young girls, pulled the 12 cosmetic products from stores across the U.S. in late December after SAI reported finding asbestos in samples of merchandise taken from the company’s products in Providence, Greensboro, Seattle, Chicago, Milwaukee, Indianapolis, Atlanta, Los Angeles, and New York City were tested at the lab after Kristiana Warner, operations manager of the Deaton Law Firm in East Providence specializing in asbestos litigation, sent her daughter’s glitter makeup kit to the lab for testing.
“We will continue to honor returns from any customers remaining uncomfortable,” Claires said in their statement refuting the asbestos findings.
An earlier version of this story misidentified Sean Fitzgerald as the owner of Scientific Analytical Institute. He is Director of Research & Legal Services at the company.
Rob Borkowski is a PBN staff writer. Email him at Borkwoski@PBN.com.
