After 30 years, Al Forno owners still love R.I.

PBN Staff

04/10/2010

The desserts are still made to order, the grilled pizzas are as popular as ever and the steaks are still never cooked beyond rare. But a reservation can be made if there are six or more in your party.
The Providence dining landmark Al Forno is celebrating 30 years in business this year. Founders and proprietors Johanne Killeen and George Germon opened their restaurant on Jan. 2, 1980 on Steeple Street in the space recently taken over by New Rivers, which just marked its own 20th anniversary. Al Forno moved to its present location on South Main Street on July 4, 1989.
Measured in quantities of food served over the past 30 years, the couple calculated when researching a recent cookbook that several tons of pasta alone have passed through their kitchen. George recalled nights when almost every table ordered one of his signature grilled pizzas and he literally could not leave the pizza-making station all night. Killeen and Germon are widely credited with the pioneering of grilled pizza in this country and some say its invention.
Cooked over hardwood charcoal on a grill that can reach a temperature of almost 1,000 degrees, hand-stretched dough is draped directly on the grates, taken off the heat after about a minute, and then flipped. Topped with olive oil, fontina, pecorino Romano, and tomato sauce, the pizza is served uncut and garnished with shaved scallions. And while Al Forno’s grilled pizza is called perfect by its many adoring fans around the world, it is never perfectly round.
Looking back, it is difficult to recall a time when Al Forno was not the darling of the Providence restaurant scene, certainly among the nation’s food writers. It is easy to assume that it was always the case. But as Killeen said, “It took us seven years to become an overnight sensation!”
In 1987, Bon Appetit published a seven-page spread that put the restaurant on the map, which led to the quote from writer Patricia Wells in the International Herald Tribune, “Al Forno is simply the world’s best casual restaurant!”
The accolades and awards followed from a Who’s Who of culinary organizations. Al Forno received James Beard Awards in several categories and three separate nominations for Best Restaurant, after which it was retired from competition.
Reviewers from around the world have raved about how Germon and Killeen put Providence on the culinary map. Then came the celebrities, led by those with offspring attending Brown or other local colleges. Richard Gere, Wesley Snipes, Al Roker, Morgan Freeman, Jacques Pepin and the late Julia Child – who celebrated at least one birthday there – graced Al Forno’s kitchen during dining visits. The list of celebrity chefs and restaurateurs who are Al Forno alumni rivals the Hollywood list. Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 in New York – the son of Killeen’s and Germon’s first boss in the restaurant business, “Dewey” Dufresne of the old Joe’s Upstairs in Providence – Suzanne Goin of Lucques in Los Angeles – herself a James Beard finalist this year – Ken Oringer of Clio in Boston, Brian Kingsford of Bacaro in Providence, and former Providence restaurateurs Neath Pal of Neath’s – where Bacaro is now – and Loren Falsone and Eric Moshier of Empire, which eventually became Bravo Brasserie.
The modern menu at Al Forno still has its staples but is reflective of some of the current trends. Breads are now house-made as is charcuterie, both of which Germon and Killeen are quick to credit to executive chef David Reynoso and chef de cuisine Phil Niosi. They both credit Niosi with getting them to cure their own meats and making sausage.
Reynoso took the lead in making Al Forno as green as possible before it was fashionable. With the help of his wife, herself an active environmentalist, a composting system was developed as well as a comprehensive program of recycling.
What is in store for the next 30 years? Germon and Killeen will most likely not stray far from Rhode Island.
“I came to Providence to go to RISD and fell in love with this state right away,” said Germon.
“After spending a lot of time in France, working on another book, we came back and fell in love with the state all over again.” Killeen added. “We’re here to stay.”
Of all the glitterati who have dined at Al Forno over its 30-year history, who is the one that made the biggest impression on these celebrity restaurateurs? Killeen says it was none other than the noted architect I.M. Pei. As they say, you can take the architecture major out of RISD but …
(Note to readers and the food police: Al Forno is mindful of state regulations which require meats to be cooked to medium, especially when being served to minors elderly and those with health issues.) &#8226

Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show can be heard Saturdays and Sundays on WPRV-AM 790 and radio stations throughout New England. His e-mail address is bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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