“So this guy walks into a bar.” That classic opening line now has a new ending. Instead of becoming the punch line for a joke, that guy is now just as likely to take the seat at the bar and order and eat dinner right there.
But why eat dinner at the bar? For many of the same reasons that you like to sit at the bar for a drink. Comfortable seats, plenty of elbow room, a lively crowd and a personable bartender.
Walter’s Ristorante d’Italia on Federal Hill, like many of its neighbors, attracts many out-of-towners who are here on business. The curved bar is conducive to conversation and has become a popular gathering place for those having dinner alone. Chef and proprietor Walter Potenza’s full menu is offered at the bar, as the bartender carefully cultivates the customer.
Customers ask questions while the bartend mixes drinks – he may even share new drink recipes. Management at Walter’s emphasizes the bar is never left unattended, which bar-diners at the restaurant say is very important to them. The person “behind the stick” can add another dimension, one not found at ordinary table dining, of frequent, personal conversation.
At Sogno Ristorante and Bar, the bar is busy just about every night. On the nights when there is live music in the restaurant, it is standing room only. Chef-proprietor Ezio Gentile’s entire Italian menu is available to bar patrons. There is plenty of room for the large plates of regional specialties and the regulars are seen digging into veal or chicken Sorrentina with proscuitto, mozzarella and cherry tomato sauce.
Dinner always has been served at the wraparound bar, recently made more inviting with comfortable upholstered, high-rise chairs. Two of those chairs have been among the most prized seats in Cranston. The restaurant, which has sponsored my radio show, has been fielding calls to reserve the first two seats at the bar for dinner, a surprising turn of events that shows just how popular bar dining has become.
McCormick and Schmick’s full dining room menu is available at the bar in one of the city’s landmarks, the Providence Biltmore Hotel. In addition, a bar menu is served seven days a week featuring burgers and appetizers priced as low as $1.95.
Designers of newer restaurants have noticed the trend of bar dining as well. The new Trio in Narragansett is reporting what the restaurant calls “a significant number” of customers who request seats at the bar to eat lunch or dinner. Temple Downtown at the Providence Renaissance Hotel has large comfortable seats at its bar. Luncheon patrons find plenty of room for spreading out work material or the newspaper.
The Hotel Providence’s new restaurant Aspire recently debuted a redesign of its bar as well. The Aspire Lounge features a separate menu from the contemporary fare found in the main dining room. The Aspire Lounge menu itself is very modern. Popular appetizers include Unagi glazed grilled shrimp with the soy glaze found on sushi, garlic and hot pepper flakes and Lobster Sliders, mini lobster rolls served in toasted brioche.
The proprietors of 3 Steeple Street in Providence lowered the height of the 30-foot solid oak bar just a little when they renovated the landmark space. Proprietor Bill Nahas was thinking about lowered sight lines to and from the main dining room in mind. But his customers find it perfect for sitting and enjoying lunch and dinner.
Whatever the reason, some of the most popular tables at some local restaurants these days have no tablecloths or candles. And they are not even tables. •
Dining Out with Bruce Newbury (bruce@brucenewbury.com) can be heard on TalkRadio 920 WHJJ-AM Fridays at 6 p.m. and Saturdays at noon.
