Five R.I. Restaurants make Eater’s essential N.E. restaurant list

BENJAMIN SUKLE, chef and owner of Oberlin and Birch. Oberlin was recently named as one of Eater's 38 essential New England restaurants. /PBN FILE PHOTO/RUPERT WHITELEY
BENJAMIN SUKLE, chef and owner of Oberlin and Birch. Oberlin was recently named as one of Eater's 38 essential New England restaurants. / PBN FILE PHOTO/RUPERT WHITELEY

PROVIDENCE – Five Rhode Island restaurants were named in Eater’s “New England’s 38 Essential Restaurants” list released on Monday.

  • Al Forno – Providence mainstay Al Forno was mentioned for continued longevity and ability to remain relevant for so many years. Al Forno was started by Johanne Killeen and her husband, the late George Germon, in 1980. The article points to Al Forno’s pizza, sausage-laced clams, pasta, crostata and warm cookies as just a part of its lasting charm.
  • Oberlin – A recent addition to the Providence food scene from Benjamin Sukle and his wife Heidi, Oberlin features crudo and pasta. Oberlin is the couple’s second restaurant, after the tasting menu-only restaurant, Birch. Eater highlights the restaurants crudo and its chiatarra caccio e pepe, a riff on an old roman dish.
  • O Dinis – Eater points to O Dinis’ quintessential Portuguese classic dishes as to what makes the East Providence establishment shine. Pair that with a Portuguese Vinho Verde, and the immersion course begins, according to Eater.
  • north – No surprise that Eater named north, long a staple of the restaurant industry for its late-night food, casual atmosphere and high-minded plates. Eater highlights north’s spicy dan dan noodles with mutton, squid and fermented chiles.
  • The Red Dory – Eater names Tiverton’s The Red Dory one of the top restaurants in New England for Steve Johnson’s (formerly of Cambridge’s Rendezvous) elegant take on stripped-down seafood fare, citing his use of local squid, clams and the return of Rendezvous’ lauded lemon pudding cake.

Of the list, 12 of the 38 restaurants were located in Massachusetts, 10 were located in Maine, five in Vermont, four in Connecticut, two in New Hampshire.

Chris Bergenheim is the PBN web editor.

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