The iconic Hemenway’s Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar reopened recently after undergoing a refresh this winter.
The restaurant was founded in 1985 by Ned Grace, who named the downtown Providence destination after his grandfather, Charles Martin Hemenway.
“Hemenway’s is an institution, and as such, it was important to us that we preserved much of its iconic look,” said Nicole Christie, regional manager of the Newport Restaurant Group, which has owned and operated Hemenway’s since acquiring it in 2009.
The menu underwent some tweaking but still retains its seafood-centric focus with the expertise of the group’s culinary leadership.
While minor updates have been made throughout the restaurant, what guests have found most impressive this early spring is the new Raw Bar area, which remains at the front of the restaurant where guests can enjoy local oysters, littlenecks, cherrystones, shrimp cocktail, lump crab meat with Creole mustard, and Alaskan king crab. In addition, there’s a selection of crudos – such as tuna with black-garlic aioli, soy-ginger vinaigrette and pickled shallot, and fluke with cured egg yolks, crispy capers, Banyuls vinaigrette and sprouts; tartares – such as yellowfin tuna with harissa, cured cucumbers, hazelnut, roasted red peppers and micro greens; and George’s Bank scallops with mango-ginger vinaigrette, radish, cucumber, pickled onion and wonton chips.
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REVAMPED RAW BAR: The new Raw Bar at Hemenway’s Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar in Providence has been a hit with customers since the restaurant reopened in early March following a winter refresh.
COURTESY NEWPORT RESTAURANT GROUP[/caption]
Just in time for its 40th anniversary, Hemenway’s reopened on March 5, serving new menu items against a backdrop of white quartz and new lobster tanks, enhanced views of the city and a brand-new, updated bar area with three high-top bar booths.
Share plates from the Raw Bar include the traditional Hemenway’s shellfish platter with lobster, shrimp, littlenecks and oysters, and the shellfish tower featuring two 1¼-pound lobsters with shrimp, littlenecks, oysters and lump crab; and the new golden osetra caviar with petite waffles, creme fraiche, shallots, chives and sieved egg. A selection of sushi is also available, including the Jonah crab roll with avocado puree, micro greens, togarashi-cilantro sauce, cucumber and wonton chips, and a native lobster roll with Negi, pickled beech mushrooms and chili crisp.
Entrees from the kitchen include pan-seared sea scallops from George’s Bank with pea puree, poached radish, fennel, peas and mint chimichurri; grilled swordfish with romesco, kale pistou, beluga lentils and roasted tri-color cauliflower salad; honey-Aleppo half-chicken with warm Yukon potato-bacon salad, seared lemon and green goddess; and lobster tortellini with arugula, tomato concasse, pink vodka sauce and basil.
For the non-seafood fan, Hemenway’s Premium Chop House menu section offers an 8-ounce angus filet mignon and bourbon-brined pork chop with smoked gouda, spring vegetable, rhubarb mostarda and bread pudding. There is also a vegetarian dressed cucumber with sesame oil, sambal oelek, peanuts, crispy shallots and garlic.
As always, Hemenway’s offers live Maine lobsters from the tank. They are available stuffed with Hemenway’s shrimp-scallop-crab stuffing or as lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, with a whole lobster, cavatappi pasta, Vermont white cheddar, bechamel, seasoned crumbs and garlic-sauteed spinach.
To attempt to refresh such a staple in the Rhode Island dining scene for 40 years is no easy task. However, early reviews call the new space “stunning,” particularly the new Raw Bar with its expanded offerings. Charles Martin Hemenway would approve.
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, is heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
