The Venus de Milo in Swansea is one big place. Under the guidance of “founding father” Monsour Ferris, it has grown to become one of the largest family-owned, independent restaurants in the country. There are six banquet rooms, including the 17,000-square-foot Athena Ballroom which can hold up to 2,500 people. Over the last 50 years, the Venus has launched political careers, hosted brides and grooms, crowned prom kings and queens, honored teams, retirees and graduating classes by the score – sometimes all at the same time. In addition, the Venus de Milo restaurant offers daily dining. The president of the Venus de Milo, Monte Ferris, Monsour’s son, refers affectionately to his business as the “plant.”
“When you have a plant like this, keeping it fresh and new is a continuous work in progress.” he said. A major makeover has been under way for the past year under the direction of Providence designer Kyla Coburn.
As with many restaurant owner-operators, Ferris is responding quickly to a changing marketplace. The demographic shift is manifesting itself in the type and style of wedding reception that the Venus is hosting nowadays. Said Monte Ferris: “A generation ago, the parents were paying for the wedding. Now, it is the bride and groom footing the bill. So the wedding guests are younger.” The guest list has changed from primarily friends of the parents to friends of the couple. Young people eat differently than their parents, so menu styles have more modern touches with bold flavors.
The Venus de Milo has stood the test of time by transforming itself into a regional banquet destination, routinely hosting gatherings from Coventry and Smithfield as well as the South Shore and Cape Cod. The Rhode Island connection is important to Ferris.
Monsour Ferris was born in Providence and his son has maintained strong ties to the Ocean State with membership in the Rhode Island Hospitality Association. Monte Ferris is also quick to give credit to his staff. There are 15 Venus employees who have worked at the restaurant for more than 30 years, two over 40 years and many for more than 20 years.
“If there is anything we sell other than great value, it is peace of mind [to the bride or event planner],” he said.
On the dining side, the beloved venue is recognized for service and food, including its award-winning New England clam chowder, minestrone soup, and baked stuffed lobster – touted as the best in southern New England by celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. Chef James Fogg came to the Venus about a year ago after a stint at the highly-regarded Chillingsworth restaurant on Cape Cod. He is introducing new menu items that are a far cry from the staples of the past, such as couscous with figs.
Today, third-generation Ferris family members, including Monte Jr., Marissa, Jon, Michael, and Lauren are all working to further the vision of Venus de Milo. This includes the renovation of the banquet facilities that is nearly complete, including gazebos and new color accents. The dining room will be completely done over by January 2011.
“Right now we have a restaurant inside a banquet room. We can keep up with the trends in food but we have to appeal to a younger crowd. So we have to update our look as well,” said Monte Ferris. What will the updated Venus de Milo restaurant look like? Think of Venus de Milo meets Capital Grille. And it will have a new name.
“We’re kicking around a lot of options,” Ferris said. “However it turns out, its full name will include, “At The Venus de Milo.”
The last 50 years have been eventful and memorable, as the framed photographs that adorned the lobby walls before the makeover attest. Ferris recalls former President John F. Kennedy coming to dine at the Venus, as did just about every governor of both Massachusetts and Rhode Island and countless other pols who held “times” there.
What will the next 50 years bring? Ferris sums it up: “It’s safe to say that this is by no means the same Venus de Milo that it was 50 years ago.”
Perhaps not. The lobster is now accented with avocado and cilantro. But the baked stuffed version is still on the menu, as popular as ever. •
Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard Saturdays and Sundays on WPRV-AM 790 and stations throughout New England. He can be reached by e-mail at
bruce@brucenewbury.com.
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