There is no denying and no attempt to minimize the economic and emotional upheaval that the restaurant community has suffered. We salute, support and utterly depend on the professionals at our state’s restaurants.
When the pandemic has passed, the restaurant industry will prevail because it must. We want our cafes, diners, trattorias, bistros, coffee shops and fine-dining restaurants to return almost any way we can get them. Back in April and May, there were stories of $1,000 tips to see restaurant staffs through. Now that there are reopenings, tipping is said to still be at a higher level.
There are industry revenue figures showing an actual rebound. The online restaurant-reservation service Open Table has robust data comparing same-day reservations among its subscribing restaurants from year to year.
On July 24, Open Table’s Rhode Island restaurants showed an 11% increase in seated diners from reservations over the same date in 2019. A week earlier the number was up 24%. By comparison, business was down 10% on Feb. 15, then had a slight uptick before the lockdown in March. Massachusetts restaurants have been in a slump since March 8 and are currently down 45%.
Meanwhile, some restaurants, such as Red Fin Crudo + Kitchen on Washington Street in Providence, are closing permanently while new ones are opening.
The Federal Hill Commerce Association stated that not a single restaurant on Providence’s Federal Hill has had to close its doors. In fact, even new restaurants, such as Bacco Vino & Contorni on Atwells Avenue, have weathered the pandemic so far.
In downtown Providence, there is a new spot called The George opening next month in the former Local 121 space on Washington Street. The proprietor, Alex Tomasso, was forced to delay opening several months due to COVID-19.
In Fox Point, Chomp Kitchen & Drinks has quietly become a success story for owner Sam Glynn, who repeated his Warren winning formula utilizing his sidewalk on Ives Street as well as a takeout window. Glynn is confident but sees storm clouds gathering even without another outbreak. “This is still New England and outdoor dining is still limited. Even pushing it, we can’t really go past the end of October,” he said. He is seeing customers who were making the trek from Providence to Warren now delighted not to have to travel. He attributes part of his success to his burger-centric menu, which lends itself to takeout and casual dining.
Fine dining is another issue. Robert Burke at Pot au Feu has had to reinvent his menu with offerings such as crème brulee to go. “Several of the most important underpinnings for downtown restaurants have yet to come back,” Burke said, citing colleges and universities, “theaters and events … and groups from small weddings to corporate.” He said the long-anemic downtown residential density, which is increasing, is not enough to make a difference. “A rising tide raises all boats – in this case I fear the converse is as true,” Burke said, adding that all that can be done is to ride it out. Restaurants have adapted well, beginning with mobilizing to feed front-line workers. This was pulled off with the help of people such as former restaurant executive Bahjat Shariff, who directed feeding and distribution operations at the height of the pandemic to local hospitals.
Another key in sustaining local restaurants was Gov. Gina M. Raimondo’s executive order allowing alcohol to be sold along with takeout meals. This continues to be an essential stream of revenue and to make it permanent would go a long way towards turning aside the dire predictions for the restaurant community.
Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK, on radio throughout New England, through various mobile applications and his podcast. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.