When the temperatures shift downward this time of year, we naturally find ways to warm up. In the wine industry, that means moving to more hearty, often celebratory wines packing a richer body and texture. In December, I am asked for my top wine picks of the season. Easy task, right? Well, not always. Wine picks are like children; they are all favorites for different reasons.
A wine is selected for my list because of its quality (price excluded) and also because of the stories and people behind it. It all makes the wine taste better. Enjoy the picks.
Malvira Sparkling Arneis, Piedmont, Italy. Arneis is a white grape from Piedmont, Italy, the northwestern part of the country that borders France and Switzerland. Wine made from arneis is usually unoaked and gives a medium body with citrus fruit notes. Make arneis into a sparkling wine, like Malvira does, and you have a hidden gem. Its vibrancy, small bubbles and dry texture make it my go-to for bubbles. Malvira is the Damonte family, run by brothers Roberto and Massimo, a charismatic duo who welcomed me and a group of clients two years ago. The Damonte kindness and love of their heritage are clearly understood despite that everything they said was in Italian.
Barlow Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Calif. This sauvignon blanc is great to drink all year. Sauvignon blanc is often considered a summer wine because of its crisp, fresh nature. Yet Barlow’s rendition is weighty and can pair with hearty winter dishes such as chicken stews and butternut squash soup. Barr Smith and his wife, Ann, have been growing grapes in Napa for some of the big-name vineyards for years. Yet, they produce a small amount under their own label. I’ll never forget our first visit there. Before a trip to Napa, I emailed Barr, sharing my desire to visit with my husband. Immediately, he responded and accommodated my request. As we pulled into the vineyard driveway, it became apparent that we were going into their home, not just a tasting room. Taking in the peaceful, bucolic nature of the vineyards while sipping their sauvignon blanc will always be a vivid memory.
Luiano Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy. A great value under $15, this sangiovese is the go-to everyday wine. It’s the “pizza, pasta, burger wine,” but really it pairs with almost anything. Medium-bodied, it’s silky with soft tannins. I don’t remember what year I met the Palombo family, who owns this tiny estate in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico, but they instantly made me feel like I was one of them. They do the same with each client who I have ever sent there. Hard to find and up many hills with hairpin turns, Luiano is run by the energetic and vibrant brother-sister duo Alessandro and Felicia. Their comical delivery of their family stories is ever present.
Tre Monti Thea, Emilia Romagna, Italy. Those who know me are never surprised to find a Tre Monti wine at the top of my favorites list. The Navacchia family – Sergio and his sons, Vittorio and Davide – extends here to the U.S. A dear Rhode Island friend, who first introduced me to the Navacchias, is a cousin to Vittorio and Davide. Thea, made from organically grown sangiovese, is the namesake of Sergio’s late wife. The wine gives us a medium to full body with dusty cocoa and dark berry notes. The present tannins show that this wine is ageable.
I recently enjoyed a 10-year-old Thea that was fantastic – supple with tannins that had softened over time. Everything the family touches is about quality and carrying forth the passion for wine and the land that Thea and Sergio started in the 1970s.
Jessica Norris Granatiero is the founder of The Savory Grape, a wine, beer and spirits shop in East Greenwich.