Climate is a key aspect that affects grape growing and its end result – wine in a bottle, can or box. Certain grapes thrive better than others in certain climates. For instance, cooler New England is a better home for grapes such as pinot gris, while California’s warmer Napa Valley is great for grapes such as cabernet sauvignon. The most important step of winemaking is in the beginning, in the vineyard, and vineyard and winery teams must play to the grape’s strengths. Here is a list of grapes and their wines from local vineyards that flourish best in the cooler climates of New England.
Vidal blanc. This grape is a hidden gem that is thick-skinned and resists frost, making it a good match for cooler New England temperatures. Vidal blanc often produces a more fruit-forward, semi-sweet white wine with its slightly higher sugar content. Also, due to the climate, the end wine has a higher acidity, making it a good food partner. This grape is found in New England and in other cooler climates such as Canada and the Finger Lakes region of New York. My pick is Greenvale Vineyards’ Skipping Stone white, which is a blend of vidal blanc and cayuga, another cool-climate white grape. The wine can be paired with raw oysters.
Cayuga. Almost any person who I ask has never heard of this grape. This is true even for some people in the wine industry. It is known as a hybrid grape, a cross between two other lesser-known white grapes, schuyler and seyval blanc. It is resistant to vineyard diseases and flourishes in areas that are cold, such as New England, the Finger Lakes region and the Pacific Northwest. It makes a light- to medium-bodied wine with prominent Granny Smith apple, pear and melon notes. Its high acid makes it great for high-acid foods and seafood. My pick is Verde Vineyards’ cayuga white, paired with ceviche.
Riesling. Originating from Germany, this grape is well known. It is used to make sweet, semi-sweet and dry white wines, giving us a variety of options. Highly influenced by the climate in which it grows, it ripens more slowly than other grapes. Of medium weight, it produces a perfumy white wine with soft acidity and notes of apples, peaches and pears with great viscosity. My pick is Nickle Creek Vineyard’s riesling, which is made in a German, semi-sweet style full of sweet apricot flavors. I enjoy it with cuisine with a hint of spice such as tandoori chicken.
Cabernet franc: This is one of the top red grapes worldwide. It grows mainly in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley in France and is used as a blending grape with the other two prominent red grapes, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Yet, it shines on its own as a single varietal wine in a plethora of styles. It also ripens early, which makes it conducive to growing in cold climates. Cabernet franc wines are lighter in color and body than cabernet sauvignon or merlot. It also shows much more acidity than both of those grapes. I have a soft spot for this charming and underrepresented red wine. Jonathan Edwards Winery’s cabernet franc with its light-medium body and bright raspberry notes is one of my favorites. Enjoy it with a portobello mushroom risotto.
Pinot gris: Pinot gris, also known as pinot grigio, loves the cold. However, it can thrive in warm climates too, with the resulting wines showing different styles. Cooler-climate pinot gris, due to its shorter ripening period, brings us a bright, crisp vibrant style white wine with moderate acidity. Cooler climates accentuate a wine’s acidity, which is a great partner for food. My pick is Greenvale Vineyards’ Ramato pinot gris. Enjoy this with turkey burgers with muenster cheese.
Jessica Granatiero is the founder of The Savory Grape, a wine, beer and spirits shop in East Greenwich. She can be reached through her website, www.jessicagranatiero.com.
