Whenever a restaurant passes a milestone anniversary, it calls for a celebration. It is hard to believe that it’s been 20 years since Red Stripe opened in Providence. Many remember when the brasserie on the East Side was the new place. It is still vibrant but as time burnishes its reputation, it takes on a deeper significance. Director of Operations Ron Coffey observed that the atmosphere is consistently lively.
“When I walk in, whether it’s 12 on a Monday afternoon or 7 on a Friday night, it’s a very energetic, happening place, happening restaurant. There are always families. It’s very boisterous,” he said.
That vibe extends to the staff. Coffey says both front- and back-of-house crew members feel the same way when they punch in. It points to the definition of a brasserie – which, according to industry support company Toast, is “an informal French cafe offering beer and wine with simple, hearty food. The dining area is usually large and open, boasting a loud, boisterous atmosphere with many tables filling the space.”
The history of Red Stripe recalls how the spot took its place as a neighborhood landmark. It is located at 465 Angell St. in Providence, on the edge of Wayland Square, and at an intersection of a dining destination in the city and the neighborhood place. Coffey concurred: “People walk down … for a bite on a Friday or on a Tuesday.”
He says that on any given night, the clientele will be folks who have lived on the East Side for 50 or 60 years sitting next to a table of college kids who’ve been or who are going to be in the neighborhood for a year or two. “It’s about as diverse a group as you’ll see,” he said.
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FORK IN THE ROAD: The Red Stripe on Angell Street in Providence has been a mainstay in the Wayland Square neighborhood for two decades.
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One important aspect to all this is what Coffey insists is the secret to Red Stripe’s success: without the neighborhood regulars, it couldn’t have lasted 20 years.
While the familiar invitation continues to be, “Let’s meet at Red Stripe,” if you ask 10 people, what does the Red Stripe menu mean to you? You’d probably get six or seven different answers. Among the consistent favorites are the grilled cheese and tomato soup combo. After 20 years, guests come in specifically for that. And, of course, mussels.
“We’ve got six different varieties of mussels,” Coffey said. In addition, Red Stripe has served brunch for almost 20 years. Coffey lists other favorites such as short rib and beef stroganoff. And as a family destination, there are consistently eight or nine items specially designed for children.
From day one, Red Stripe has always been described as a brasserie, which in the French tradition has an “adult beverage” component. The word is related to the French word for brewery. As the name suggests, most American brasseries offer a rotating assortment of lagers, ales, ciders and stouts from local breweries, in addition to French and American wines. The drinks accompany the food as opposed to a café or bar, where food might be secondary.
At Red Stripe, it is all about familiar, tasty food. In addition to the top sellers and menu mainstays, other popular items include several salads. Coffey points to the Red Stripe’s Cobb and the Everything But The Kitchen Sink, which Coffey recited from memory: “Romaine lettuce and mesclun greens, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, chickpeas, red onions, string beans, nicoise olives, feta cheese, roasted red pepper, pickled cauliflower and a quarter of an egg.”
Another signature is on the outside of the restaurant – the large fork.
“Yes, the fork over the door. We’ve got one in the front and the back as well,” Coffey said.
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, is heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
