In the almost 10 years since the Chow Fun Food Group opened the doors of its first restaurant, it has spread throughout downtown Providence, starting three more restaurants and planning further expansion within the city and beyond.
But despite the proliferation of eateries, it’s not exactly a chain.
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Co-owned by John Elkhay and Richard and Cheryl Bready, the group has thrived since its first restaurant, XO Café, now XO Steakhouse, opened its doors in 1997. Since the North Main Street eatery served its first dish, Chow Fun has opened other Providence restaurants, including Big Fish and 10 Prime Steak & Sushi – each designed to bring a different flair to the local restaurant scene.
In August, Chow Fun unveiled its latest addition: Citron Wine Bar & Bistro, at 5 Memorial Blvd., in the former Union Station complex.
The ambiance there is “casual elegance”; the food is inspired by contemporary California, New Mexico and Pacific Rim cuisine, Elkhay said, and includes an array of organic offerings.
The 60-item wine list also offers organic choices, and organic beer has been a strong seller, he said. Citron has even made use of recyclable products and biodegradable cleaning supplies.
It’s a new experience for the restaurant group, he said, but he expects the organic experience to be enhanced in the next several years.
“It’s a different subculture,” Elkhay said. “You’ve got to buy from different distributors, so we’re in the learning process as well, while we are educating our clientele about what we’re doing.”
The restaurant, which opened at a cost of $1 million, has a moderate-price menu with lunch entrées for $12 and dinner entrées around $20. As more upscale steakhouses and chains have moved into town, Elkhay said, Chow Fun saw an opportunity at a lower price point.
“I saw a need for a casual, everyday restaurant that they could come to, either before the theater or after the theater,” he said, “and just have supper that’s a little bit special, and not leave with a second mortgage that they’d have to pay off.”
What does that mean for Chow Fun’s other restaurants nearby?
There has been some “cannibalism” from the established restaurants, Elkay said, but with each adhering to its own style, there’s room for them all. Big Fish focuses on seafood; XO is primarily a steakhouse, though with Asian-style offerings; and at 10 Prime, sushi is a big draw.
“It would be the same if another restaurant opened up and we didn’t take the space,” Elkhay said. “I’d rather cannibalize myself than have someone take my business.”
Early next year, Chow Fun will open its fifth restaurant, Chinese Laundry, right next door to XO. Offering Asian food choices, such as sushi and dim sum, it will be among the city’s smallest restaurants, with only 28 seats, including eight at the bar.
But Chinese Laundry will also feature a private dining area and an upstairs lounge that Elkhay said may be private too.
The future could bring further expansion for Chow Fun, he said.
Its Coco Café kiosk, already open outside Citron, could find a home in the new GTECH headquarters. An espresso bar, Coco also serves sandwiches and pastries.
In addition, Elkhay said he is looking at the Boston market – but opening Citron and Chinese Laundry came first. He insists on being personally involved in the creation of each restaurant, working on the design, the menus and the atmosphere.
“I don’t delegate anything, so it’s very difficult for me to work on more than one restaurant a year,” Elkhay said. “Chains can do 30 a year, but I can only do one every 18 months. I just like to taste everything and be part of every aspect of it.”
