The word among many chefs is that they are moving back from the cutting edge. Many echo what one celebrity chef told an interviewer recently: “I’m no longer about the latest drop of this or that on the plate. I’m about comfort!” However, some are ready to return to more adventurous dining, and there are a couple of places that are responding. They both happen to be in Newport.
Stoneacre Brasserie hosted a special truffle dinner on Dec. 3. This was part of a larger event in conjunction with the showing of the film “The Truffle Hunters” at the Jane Pickens Theater across Washington Square – itself the site of the filming of an upcoming Disney movie having just wrapped up before Thanksgiving. The truffle film is a 2020 documentary following a group of venerable foragers and their dog seeking out the prized Alba truffle. One of the world’s agreed-upon delicacies, this prized white truffle is found in the forests of Piedmont in Italy.
The proprietor of Stoneacre, David Crowell, said the documentary sets the scene for the dinner as the film brings out how truffles can become a passion in the lives of foodies. This has always been the case, but add the denial of all of what we prized during the last 21 months and it is easy to see how the longing could become unbearable, how the chance to have the experience is that much more anticipated almost regardless of the price.
Both the white Alba truffle and the black Perigord truffle from France were included on the menu of more than eight courses highlighted by bay scallops, brioche, whipped truffle butter, black truffle custard tartlet, Jasper Hill Farm Harbison – a Vermont artisan cheese prized almost as much as the truffles – black walnut and truffle biscotti, black garlic and zinfandel jam.
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BRUNCH TIME: The historic Chinese Tea House on the grounds of Marble House is hosting holiday brunches through Dec. 31. / COURTESY THE PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF NEWPORT COUNTY[/caption]
Stoneacre is contributing to another holiday indulgence this season in Newport. The historic Chinese Tea House on the grounds of Marble House is hosting holiday brunch. The unique structure was constructed as a playhouse for youngsters in the mansion’s heyday during the Gilded Age. In recent years, it has showcased chefs and their specialties during the Newport Mansion Wine and Food Festival on the grounds of Marble House each September.
The brunch offers a menu by Stoneacre Brasserie, with three courses and a complimentary tea service. Choices for the main course include wild mushroom toast with black garlic and arugula; crispy pork belly with polenta and pickled pearl onions; smoked salmon board with accouterments and toast points; or quiche with caramelized onion, cauliflower and greens. Specialty cocktails and wine are available for purchase. Holiday brunch will be served weekends through Dec. 19, as well as the weekdays following Christmas, Dec. 27 through Dec. 31, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The price is $35 per person, or $16 for children 12 and younger.
The Rhode Island district director of the U.S. Small Business Administration, Mark S. Hayward, stated during the “Shop Local” weekend following Thanksgiving that for every dollar spent in Rhode Island, approximately 70 cents stays in the local economy. The truffle dinner was sold out and the holiday brunches are sold out or are nearly sold out. That success reflects the eagerness of the public to return to life before the pandemic.
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury” is broadcast locally on WADK 101.1 FM and 1540 AM and is also available as a podcast. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
