(Updated at 2:30 p.m. to clarify connection to Montauk boats in 6th paragraph.)
There has been a lot of talk recently about rings – of the championship variety. It brought to mind the type of rings we are partial to here in the Ocean State – the rings of calamari. They of course enjoy special status around here being the state’s official appetizer. The Italian word “calamari” sounds more appetizing than “squid.”
While calamari is enjoyed all over the world, in its most familiar form – fried as an appetizer – it is one of the most ubiquitous menu items here in the Ocean State. Thanks to our geography and climate, we are strategically located in the middle of some of the richest waters on the East Coast, with squid, quahogs and numerous other species of seafood readily available year-round.
Aaron Ferri of The Town Dock was at a recent showcase of Rhode Island foods held at Dave’s Marketplace and shared some information about calamari.
“What we are doing, and very excited about, [is] Dave’s carries a domestic calamari, a clean calamari, and we are serving up, thanks to the chefs at Dave’s, some samples of a classic Rhode Island dish – fried calamari rings. It could be in the traditional Federal Hill style with hot pepper rings in a little oil. We have a plant in Point Judith and a secondary plant in Johnston, as well as seven boats … and we unload numerous independently captained boats at the Port of Galilee. We are actually the No. 1 company that lands and processes the domestic East Coast [squid] product.”
Those of us who do not spend a lot of time researching calamari beyond our dinner plate don’t have a full appreciation of the industry that is being undertaken in the Port of Galilee. The most recent figures on the squid catch totaled more than 25 million pounds per year. According to Ferri, the quota is somewhere in the neighborhood of 45 million pounds.
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RHODY BITES: Fried calamari rings are the official state appetizer of Rhode Island. / COURTESY THE TOWN DOCK[/caption]
The state is taking an active role in managing this large and lucrative resource. Ferri is quick to acknowledge the state’s “RI Seafood” branding promotion, which he said has “really put Rhode Island on the map.” He praises Gov. Gina M. Raimondo and Sen. Jack F. Reed, D-R.I., who support, promote and secure funding for infrastructure upgrades at the port. He says the efforts make Point Judith even more attractive to squid boats. Ferri also noted two new boats from Montauk, N.Y., that recently began supplying The Town Dock.
Ferri knows his product from ocean to table. He ticked off restaurant after restaurant that features Town Dock calamari and how each chef puts his own touches on it, from capers at Mews Tavern in South Kingstown to a calamari menu at Arturo Joe’s in Narragansett featuring such calamari varieties as sauté with mushrooms, scallions, roasted red peppers, butter, wine, garlic and soy; Buffalo-style, tossed in the kicked-up chicken-wing sauce; or with pesto and baby shrimp. He praised the restaurant for its creativity and “caring about the product.”
Rhode Island has long tentacles, as many of us know. Our state is well-represented on menus far and wide. For example, at a restaurant in suburban Chicago, the Fish Bar, the appetizer section leads off with no less than “Federal Hill Rhode Island-style” calamari.
The Town Dock is a 2018 PBN Manufacturing Awards winner for lean management. It is among 14 winning individuals and companies selected from dozens of applications and stands alone in the food category in this year’s winners. If success is measured by rings, then calamari is a real success story both in and out of Rhode Island. n
Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK and through the TuneIn mobile app. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.