Cabernet franc is a grape variety that jazzes me. Unless you are in the wine industry or a wine aficionado, you may not have heard of this charming and aromatic grape variety. It is most often used to blend with other red grapes – such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot – in red blends from
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STANDING TALL: Three fine examples of cabernet franc are from the Keenan Winery in Napa Valley, Penley Estate in Australia and Lieb Cellars on the North Fork of Long Island.
COURTESY JESSICA NORRIS GRANATIERO[/caption]
Greenvale, Portsmouth. Since Rhode Island has a cooler climate, Greenvale’s cabernet franc has higher acid and a slightly lighter body than ones from warmer climates. Its bell pepper notes stand out and are combined with hints of black pepper and raspberries. Pairs well with grilled pork chops atop a mushroom risotto.
Robert Keenan, Napa Valley, Calif. This winery is one of my favorites, and its cabernet franc is a higher-level one. The warm, mountain, sunny days and cooler nights allow the flavors to fully develop while also maintaining a nice balanced acidity. It’s quite full-bodied and round with dark berry notes that intermingle with soft vanilla notes from its time aging in oak barrels. This will age well for 10-plus years. Pairs well with filet mignon with buttered roasted red potatoes.
Lieb Cellars on the North Fork of Long Island, N.Y. The North Fork of Long Island from which this wine comes is becoming well known for producing cabernet franc. Its warm summer days help the grapes develop full juicy flavors, while the nighttime coolness brings forth the acidity. This is one of my favorites. It displays notes of sweet tobacco, blackberry and currant and just a kiss of vanilla from its 10 months of aging in Hungarian oak barrels. It also has a relatively lower alcohol content, under 13%. Pairs well with charcuterie with figs, roasted walnuts and pistachios, and Turkish-style foods such as tabbouleh.
Penley Estate, Australia. From the area Coonawarra, this selection is full-bodied and full of allspice, plum, black cherry and chocolate flavors. Its roundness envelops the mouth nicely. It doesn’t spend any time in oak barrels, so the mouthfeel is clean and vibrant with just the right balance of acidity and fruit. Pairs well with grilled salmon atop broccolini and white beans.
Gaspard, Loire Valley, France. From the Loire Valley, this cabernet franc displays a lighter body and full flavors of bell peppers, cranberries, black cherries and white pepper. It has a vibrant acidity that makes it a great food partner. I prefer to enjoy it with food since its acidity is quite high. The grapes are all farmed organically, and the wine is bottled with minimal sulfur added, which means it has a lower level of sulfites. Pairs well with roasted turkey with a cranberry chutney.
Jessica Granatiero is the founder of The Savory Grape, a wine, beer and spirits shop in East Greenwich. She can be reached through her website, www.jessicagranatiero.com.