The history of Providence restaurants may well be the history of rock and roll.
Hit single “Psycho Killer” by Talking Heads, which has its roots at the Rhode Island School of Design, was recorded on a tape in Providence over 50 years ago. The recording was done in drummer Chris Frantz’s apartment, on the corner of Benefit and Waterman streets.
“It was recorded in my apartment, upstairs from what used to be called Joe’s Sandwich Shop; Joe’s was a really well-loved spot,” Frantz said in an interview.
Joe’s was a must-stop for lunch in the early ’70s. It was run by Joe “Dewey” Dufresne. Also on the scene at Joe’s was a sculptor named George Germon, who had visions of pizza that would forge new paths down the hill at Al Forno.
Fine dining was finding its own way. On the East Side, there was the Gatehouse, where Waterman Grille is today. Many diners chose to keep going over the Henderson Bridge, finding their way to Seekonk and Café In The Barn.
As I wrote in PBN in 2012, Café In The Barn was “one of this area’s premier fine-dining restaurants during the 1970’s. A young chef, John Elkhay, was in the kitchen turning out Escargots A La Mistral, ‘sautéed with mushrooms and cognac in a tomato cream sauce with Pernod,’ and Filet Mignon Café Style, ‘grilled with seasonings and crowned with the café’s garlic cheese butter.’ The tab for the filet was $12; the escargot, $3.50.”
Elkhay’s Chow Fun Food Group has been keeping Providence diners happy for decades with numerous trend-setting concepts. Now, “the maestro” is opening a new seafood restaurant in the city.
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REUNITED: Chow Fun Food Group owner John Elkhay, left, and executive chef Jules Ramos, who started out together at Providence restaurants such as In Prov, Atomic Grill and XO Cafe, are again teaming up at Chow Fun’s newest restaurant, 10 Prime Seafood in Providence.
COURTESY JOHN ELKHAY[/caption]
The opening of 10 Prime Seafood revitalizes the two-story space at 123 Empire St., across from Trinity Repertory Company. 10 Prime Seafood reunites an award-winning team that includes executive chef Jules Ramos, who was on the ground floor of the Providence restaurant boom with Elkhay at In Prov, Atomic Grill and XO Cafe; and interior designer Stephanie Skovron, who gave the look to 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, Chinese Laundry and Harry’s Bar & Burger.
The band is back together, and Elkhay is playing the hits. 10 Prime Seafood brings together not only the collaborators but Elkhay’s adult children, Harrison Elkhay, who serves as president of Chow Fun; and his sister Laura Elkhay, who recently returned to Chow Fun to help oversee restaurant operations.
“It’s a reunion, a true full-circle moment for me in my career,” John Elkhay said. “[It] is a passion project for the entire team.”
The team agrees.
“Collaborating with John and Stephanie is not just taking a walk down memory lane; it’s taking the road less traveled to offer guests beautiful, authentic food prepared the way it should be, and in an elevated, showstopping environment,” Ramos said.
Skrovon promises 10 Prime Seafood is the most elegant of all the Chow Fun restaurants.
“[It] will be very sophisticated and chic, edgy and fun – sexy like the original 10, but a bit more conservative,” she said.
The menu is inspired by simplicity with locally sourced and organically focused components.
“What you eat matters,” Elkhay said. “Where it is grown and raised matters; the oils we use matter. I’m not putting anything on this menu that I wouldn’t prepare and eat in my own kitchen.”
The focus is on Rhode Island oysters, locally sourced seafood, live Maine lobster and imported caviar. Also offered are USDA Prime hand-cut steaks and creative house-made desserts. There is also a curated wine list and a cocktail menu.
10 Prime Seafood will serve dinner daily.
Will Talking Heads be heard during dinner? One can only say, “Qu’est-ce que c’est?”
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, is heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
