Television chefs make cooking look so simple. Who among us who watches the Food Network or Frank Terranova hasn’t been inspired to take spatula in hand and dive in? Here in Rhode Island, one doesn’t have to look very far to find a variety of cooking classes that can help turn inspiration into entrées.
Lately, the choices have gotten even better, as some of Rhode Island’s top chefs have jumped in, opening their kitchens to “foodies” wanting to be as good as the best.
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Today’s cooking class is a far cry from the temperamental chefs who ruled their kitchens with an iron fist and would never allow a civilian into their domain. As Joe Hafner of Gracie’s puts it, “It’s all good. The more our guests know, the more likely they are to come back for the experience after they try to do it at home!”
Chef Walter Potenza, of Walter’s Restaurant on Federal Hill, one of the earliest chefs to turn his restaurant into a classroom, says there is still a lack of food education in America. In an interview with Cookingschool.com, Potenza said things have improved over the past 25 years, a contention that is supported by the popularity of restaurant cooking classes.
Truth is, teaching us how to cook has become a cottage industry of late among Rhode Island chefs, supplementing the existing offerings of classes by institutions such as Johnson & Wales University, the Learning Connection and Rhode Island School of Design.
Hafner’s monthly classes are almost always filled to capacity. Hafner brings up to 30 students into his kitchen on Washington Street, many of whom want to duplicate the dining experience in their own kitchens, some of which rival the most elaborate Providence restaurants. He says that many of his students are repeat attendees, but not because of failing grades. “It’s the social aspect. They know each other and look forward to getting together for a different dining-out experience.”
Social interaction plays a part in attracting students to the more traditional institutions as well. The culinary course description at RISD’s School of Continuing Education declares, “We emphasize not only the art in culinary arts … [but] the fun and camaraderie with other people interested in cooking, eating and just plain living well.”
Chef Kyle Ketchum of The Spiced Pear restaurant at The Chanler at Cliff Walk in Newport gives cooking classes to couples – a maximum of four at any time – in a package deal with a two-night stay at the hotel. His classes are customized for each guest. “We kind of make it up,” he said with a laugh.
He interviews his students before the class to find what they would like to learn. Two recent attendees wanted to focus on fish. Ketchum suggested a class on the skate wing, which is becoming popular as other species such as sea bass are being overfished. “We brought in two whole fish so they could see it from start to finish, super fresh.”
During the two-hour session, the students filleted the skates before, lightly sautéing the delicate fish dusted with seasoned flour in an orange-fennel compound butter, then serving them with shrimp and fava beans with gnocchi.
Then the class spent another hour with the Spiced Pear’s pastry chef, Laurent Vals, preparing vanilla crème brûlée, poached spiced pears, chocolate ganache with toasted hazelnuts and Vals’ signature pulled sugar “cages,” golden honeycomb-shaped creations that hold the pear dessert.
“We take the mystery out of being a chef and out of cooking,” Ketchum said. “It makes people feel more secure in their skill as home cooks. Some people think the chef is not allowed to make a mistake, that the chef is all-knowing. I’m just like everyone else. I am an excellent professional chef. I am the worst home cook.”
Dining Out with Bruce Newbury can be heard on TalkRadio 920 WHJJ-AM Fridays at 6 p.m. and Saturdays at noon.
