We have just about every style of dining out available here in our “snack-sized state,” as Food & Wine recently referred to Rhode Island.
Food icon Julia Child was asked during one of her many visits here what was lacking in eclectic restaurant options. The year was 2000 and there was a gathering in what was then Davio’s in the Biltmore, which is now the Graduate Providence. She considered the question and then replied, “Fine dining – Chinese!” And, of course, she was prophetic. In 2011, Jacky’s Waterplace came on the scene a short distance from where Julia Child was speaking and took its place as the first fine-dining Pan Asian restaurant in the state.
There are not many dining concepts that aren’t represented, or at least have not been attempted, in our state. One of the last ones is about to be realized.
In the far-flung regions of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, there is one word that will bring a smile to foodies on all levels: Wawa.
Wawa Inc. is a chain of gas station convenience stores located along the East Coast from New Jersey to Florida. Started in the mid-1960s, the chain evolved into an option for to-go lunch items. Of course, the signature Philly cheesesteak was at the top of the menu and was the foundation of a menu of sandwiches that evolved into custom-made creations. Quality improved as popularity increased and by the early 2000s, there was a cult-like following of foodies. With the advent of social media, word reached far and wide about the freshness, quality and craft of the menu and the reputation spread.
A similar experience is about to take its place in the crowded Rhode Island food scene by a different name. A startup convenience food and fuel brand began quietly in 2021. Neon Marketplace, a brand owned by Providence-based Procaccianti Cos., opened its first location in Middletown with multiple fuel pumps and a spacious retail coffee shop/deli/convenience food market. It quickly developed a following for quality grab-and-go food. The company brought in longtime restaurant personality and executive Bahjat Shariff, who put the Panera Bread cafes on the map in the state in 2000. Shariff had left to run a burger concept in New Mexico but wanted to return to the Ocean State. He joined Neon and saw an opportunity. He is joined by some personalities with a fresh outlook and vision.
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FRESH FROM THE OVEN: Neon Marketplace “pizza pro” Jessica LaPlante, left, and Neon General Manager Nicole Bailey display the pizza that will be offered at Neon locations in Rhode Island, which will also feature a pizza oven. COURTESY NEON MARKETPLACE[/caption]
Elise Babey is a food developer who joined Neon from Florida with a clear focus on an open lane in the food scene around here. She and the Neon team are developing several unique approaches to some popular casual food choices. The first is a fresh take on pizza. Being rolled out at the Neon locations in Rhode Island and Seekonk is a new-style square pizza, a cross between a Sicilian and Roman style. The dough is fluffy. It is proofed – allowed to rise – like bakery pizza, the Rhode Island “party pizza.” The dough ball at the foundation is locally made.
After it is topped, the pizza is baked in a brick oven, which gives a crispy bottom crust and is one of the most distinguishing features. The toppings are also unique, with combinations such as chicken with hot honey and mozzarella cheese, and a Market Special with slices of tomato, banana peppers, black olives, arugula, sausage and pepperoni with a mozzarella blanket.
“We want to break the mold of what people think of so-called ‘convenience store food,’ ” Babey said. “Our consumer who wants upscale coffee in the morning and an artisan sandwich or salad at lunch, then orders from a restaurant on their way home is going to find all those things here.”
Neon has some ambitious plans, especially in these times. The outlook for the company is to open six more locations between Cape Cod and Connecticut in the coming months.
Dining Out With Bruce Newbury is broadcast locally on WADK 101.1 FM and 1540 AM and on radio throughout New England. Contact Bruce at bruce @brucenewbury.com.