There were some choice words used by many restaurant patrons who dined out this past Valentine’s Day that came as a surprise to hosts, servers, chefs and owners.
As longtime Newport restaurateur Richard Sardella related, Valentine’s Day was more like Valentine’s weekend. It was clearly a multiday event at his two concepts – Sardella’s and Imbriglio’s Pizzeria Napoletana. Whether it was COVID-19 caution, lack of planning or simply the unexpected twists and turns of romance, there were many last-minute reservations. The restaurants were nearly sold out from opening to close. The choice words from guests: “I understand.”
Despite the apocryphal tales of guests throwing tantrums and sometimes blunt objects, customers have recovered their coping skills. As Sardella put it, “[Our guests] have read the news about worker shortages. They are understanding when they have to wait for a table, or a dinner takes a little longer to prepare.”
There are signs that the food-service business is back, with industry signs of life such as spring trade shows returning and new places opening.
La Vecina, which began as an authentic Mexican pop-up restaurant from Bar ’Cino’s executive chef Mariana Gonzalez-Trasvina, returned as a “ghost kitchen” at Bar ’Cino in Newport in early February in advance of its brick-and-mortar opening this spring.
“While we put the finishing touches on La Vecina’s brick-and-mortar location [in Newport], it was exciting to bring back chef Mariana’s hand-crafted Mexican street food through a ghost kitchen until we open our doors this spring,” said Shawn Westhoven, beverage director, Newport Restaurant Group.
Chef Gonzalez-Trasvina, originally from Mexico City, crafted an authentic menu that honors her family’s generational recipes. Street tacos, served in handmade blue corn tortillas, include the pollo a la salsa verde with tomatillo salsa verde, crema, queso fresco and onion; antojitos (“street snacks”), which feature tamales verdes with chicken, salsa verde, cilantro, queso fresco and crema; seasonal calabacitas (little squash) con queso, currently featuring acorn squash, chili pepitas, queso fresco and roasted tomato salsa; chili-dusted chicharrones; a trio de salsas with chips; and spicy peanuts. Dulces, or sweets, feature tres leches: vanilla sponge cake, three milks, cinnamon and whipped cream; and Mexican-spiced hot chocolate torte with dulce de leche and whipped cream.
La Vecina is Newport Restaurant Group’s 14th concept; others include upscale seafood restaurants, a steakhouse, Italian trattorias and casual pub-style eateries.
Another sign of restaurant recovery is the return of special dinner events. On Feb. 24, Stoneacre Brasserie at 28 Washington Square in Newport hosted a game dinner, presenting innovative ways to enjoy and elevate wild game. The menu featured applewood-smoked venison tartare, goose wing l’orange and a rabbit roulade with yellow-foot chanterelles, cornbread and fermented blueberry jus. Those wanting an all-encompassing wild game experience found chef Christopher Bender at the ready with a menu that also included squab, bison, wild boar and guinea hen.
Bruce Newbury’s radio show and podcast, “Dining Out with Bruce Newbury,” is broadcast on WADK 1540 AM and several radio stations throughout New England. Email him at Bruce@BruceNewbury.com.
