Lindt wins, Nestle loses as chocolate lovers seek darker treates

Azy Arbash used to like Mars bars
and chocolate made by Nestle SA and Hershey Foods Corp. Now
when the 45-year-old New Yorker wants a treat, he turns to
products with higher cocoa content from companies such as
Switzerland’s Lindt & Spruengli AG.
“My chocolate eating habits have definitely changed,”
Arbash said, as he browsed for Easter gifts at the Lindt store
on Fifth Avenue. “I target high-quality dark chocolate. I eat
only a small amount every day, so I can afford it.”
As obesity reaches record levels, chocolate consumption is
declining in the U.S. Yet the premium segment of the global
$42.2 billion industry is growing. In Europe, a similar shift
is taking place after governments four years ago allowed
vegetable fats to be used in chocolate, diluting its cocoa
taste.
Profit at Kilchberg-based Lindt rose 20 percent last year
as revenue gained 7.1 percent. Sales of organic chocolate at
London rival Green & Black’s surged 62 percent.
“The chocolate business is a very difficult one at the moment,” said Edouard Dubuis, who manages a 20 million-euro
($25 million) consumer goods fund including Nestle shares at
Clariden Bank in Geneva. “With premium chocolate as its
mainstay, a company like Lindt & Spruengli is much better
positioned than larger competitors.”

Premium chocolate is a product that uses cocoa butter as
its main fat source and uses at least 70 percent cocoa.
Shares of Lindt & Spruengli, founded in 1845, have risen
68 percent in the past year, more than quadruple the gains of
Vevey, Switzerland-based Nestle, the world’s largest chocolate
maker, and twice the share-price increase of Hershey,
Pennsylvania-based Hershey, the U.S.’s biggest maker of
chocolate candy.

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