The expression “old wives’ tale” is almost as politically incorrect these days as – well, what expression isn’t these days? Nonetheless, they are as prevalent as ever. Here are two of those “things that everybody knows” about the restaurant world that aren’t exactly correct.
The first is, “All seafood is frozen. … The bulk of the freezing is done at sea by huge factory ships.” Chef Kevin Gaudreau, who has worked in restaurant kitchens for more than 30 years, declared, “The shores off Rhode Island produce the best calamari in the world.” The versatility of calamari comes from its variety of different textures. Grilling the squid, for example, gives it a unique charred flavor and a firm bite that is an entirely different texture from the crispy, fried version. “We use fresh calamari,” Gaudreau said. “This [delicacy] is coming straight out of the water. It has never been frozen, so it hasn’t gone through any of the changes [that can affect its taste].”
Gaudreau, who operates KG Kitchen Bar on Hope Street in Providence, explained that after freezing, the protein, which is what calamari is, goes through a physical degradation as it thaws because freezing expands the liquid contained in it. That has an effect on the texture, and a cook has to compensate by masking with sauce or excess breading. Gaudreau always chooses fresh squid. After freezing, the squid doesn’t stand up well to frying after it defrosts. Fresh calamari has a “firmer bite.”
The myth that all fish is frozen at sea is based on past methodology when factory ships from other countries would anchor in international waters when those limits were much closer to shore than they are now. The “factory boats” still exist, but today’s fishmonger or buyer for restaurants is much more savvy and able to buy from smaller boats that work out of local ports such as Point Judith in Narragansett.
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KG KITCHEN BAR chef and owner Kevin Gaudreau, left, with bartender Domenic Iannoccine at the Hope Street establishment in Providence in 2017. / COURTESY KG KITCHEN BAR[/caption]
The best seller at KG Kitchen Bar, surprisingly, is not Rhode Island’s old-school version of the dish: squid rings lightly battered and served with a lemon wedge, sprig of parsley and a side of marinara sauce for dipping. Gaudreau’s current version of calamari is tossed in toasted garlic butter and combined with sweet chilis, banana peppers, marinated olives, baby arugula and a drizzle of tomato aioli. It’s the restaurant’s best-selling appetizer.
The other “tale” is more current and has been amplified by the economic hardship that has befallen restaurant workers as the industry endures the COVID-19 pandemic. It is along the lines of, “Restaurant skill sets do not translate well to resumes.” Unfortunately, circumstances and misfortune have laid bare some business practices in the restaurant industry that have been kept under wraps. The food service industry, like show business and similar lines of work, has a public image that overshadows complicated behind-the-scenes inner workings and practices that, at the very least, are unflattering and, at worst, nothing short of exploitative.
At the same time, it attracts a number of individuals who prefer a life “on the down low.” Neither are in the majority. There is a substantial number of workers in the restaurant and food service sectors who possess excellent life skills. In their daily work, restaurant employees are problem solvers, crisis handlers, therapists, numbers crunchers, salespersons, teachers, electricians, plumbers, first-aid providers, storytellers, party throwers and event planners.
Many of them are still on the job in Rhode Island. For those who have had their circumstances change and find themselves seeking employment, there are brighter prospects among the state’s independently owned restaurants and caterers. The hiring is done in large part by the business owner, who evaluates qualities in an interview instead of being reduced to an algorithm by employment software programs in some national database in a sea of corporate hiring hubs.
Bruce Newbury’s radio show and podcast, “Dining Out with Bruce Newbury,” now in its 25th year, is broadcast on WADK 1540 AM and several radio stations throughout New England. Email him at Bruce@BruceNewbury.com.
