In other times, this space might be holding forth about authentic pizza or barbecue. This time of the year, the Feast of the Seven Fishes would ordinarily make the food headlines.
These, of course, are not other times. This is 2020, or at least what remains of it. Restaurants in the state have been thrust into an unwanted spotlight for the last nine months. The industry was among the first to come under scrutiny and subsequent restrictions in the first weeks of the COVID-19 pandemic. But a curious thing happened. The people who depend upon restaurants – which is most of us – turned out to support them. There was an outpouring of generosity on the part of guests who would not be denied and who would not let their essential source of food, drink, companionship and hospitality go under if they could help it. Tips of hundreds and thousands of dollars were routinely given. And the proprietors, chefs and staffs responded. They “paid it forward,” turning out meals, pizzas, coffee and more to first responders.
Since the spring and summer, restaurant row learned how to pivot. First to takeout, then outdoor, then to family feeding, and these days with holiday customs and traditional dishes. That Feast of the Seven Fishes is going to be a movable feast this year. For example, the new Palmer River Grille in Warren operated by the Gorman family is offering whole turkey breast dinners, roast prime rib or family sized stuffed sole with fixings. The new PB Bistro & Bar in East Greenwich is rolling out a similar program but with vegan and vegetarian items. This is new ground being covered and it is likely to continue after the pandemic. What is also new, or at least is being made public, is the gratitude being expressed by these business owners to their guests who have become their hosts. Casey Riley, chief operating officer of the Newport Restaurant Group, while relating the awful news that more associates had to be furloughed, wanted to take time to thank the many guests and friends who have gone above and beyond in their generous tips. Bob Burke of Pot au Feu, in the running for a cash award from a national banking concern, made sure it was understood he was out to sustain his staffers, some of whom face life’s struggles on a daily basis, as well as to express his gratefulness to his guests.
Rhode Island has a predominance of owner-operated independent restaurants. The families who run these places have had to do some soul-searching to rededicate themselves to their commitment to continue. There will be some changes to the landscape. There always has been. Iconic restaurants closed their doors a year ago and the year before that and the decade before that. What is happening just as often but is not as widely reported are stories of silver linings. Friends of a local family-owned restaurant in early December placed a $2,000 take-out order from the casual eatery to be delivered to 100 residents of an assisted-living facility one evening. These friends resided in Ohio, Colorado, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina and Massachusetts. What other business is receiving random acts of kindness in the form of checks and cash from its customers?
The restaurant business model depends on repeat visits for success. If you can, return the kindness and hospitality by making an extra visit to your favorite restaurant to purchase gift cards or merchandise as holiday gifts. And as we try to keep and extend good thoughts, here is a toast to all of our good health in the new year. Merry Christmas and happy holidays.
Bruce Newbury’s radio show and podcast, “Dining Out with Bruce Newbury,” now in its 25th year, is broadcast on WADK 1540 AM and several radio stations throughout New England. Email him at Bruce@BruceNewbury.com. Palmer River Grille is a marketing participant on Newbury’s program.