Southern Italy is full of sunshine, miles of coastline and a plethora of red grapes, including a hidden gem: primitivo. This grape grows well in the warmer climate of the Puglia region. The area is recognized by its white-hued buildings, architecture, and vast vineyards and farmland. Puglia hugs the coast of both the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The two main regions for primitivo are Manduria and Gioia dell Colle.
The DNA of primitivo is thought to be the same as the zinfandel, which is grown mostly in California. The primitivo name comes from the root primo (meaning first in Italian) because the ripening of this grape is early. Primitivo is a dark-skinned grape that exudes hues of violet and deep red. Medium- to full-bodied wines are a result of a winemaker’s prowess with this grape. There has been a surge in requests and information about this varietal.
Here are some of my primitivo picks that are great matches for the cooler fall season cuisine:
Luccarelli primitivo. It’s a great value wine and its vineyards lie in the Salento peninsula region, which benefits from constant ocean breezes. The growers pick all the grapes by hand. Fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, and further refinement of the wine happens in used French and American oak barriques for an additional four to five months. A beautiful red and violet hue, the Luccarelli primitivo has a medium to full body with deep dark cherry and plum notes. The mid-palate is smooth with soft tannins. This rounds out at the end with a silky, smooth finish. This is a great match for grilled beef loin, pork belly atop Thai noodles and blackened salmon. Less than $15.
[caption id="attachment_478726" align="aligncenter" width="1024"]
SOUTHERN CHARM: These wines are made from the primitivo grape grown in the Puglia region in the south of Italy.
COURTESY JESSICA NORRIS GRANATIERO[/caption]
Miali primitivo. The Miali family has been making wine since the late 1800s. The grapes are grown in the Gioia delle Colle region, one of the main Puglian subregions for grape growing, while one of its wineries is located in the region of Martina Franca. Miali’s primitivo has a medium body with notes of blueberry, blackberry, chocolate and licorice. Due to its aging in stainless steel, it exudes a fresh vibrancy and soft acidic profile. It is naturally a good partner for pasta dishes with vegetables and meat sauce, risotto with mushrooms and spaghetti carbonara. Less than $15.
Coppi Siniscalco primitivo. The historic Coppi winery dates back more than 100 years. It is located in the territory of Gioia del Colle. In the 1960s, a young Antonio Coppi went to work in the vineyard that he would eventually purchase and thus began a family dynasty of producing prestigious Puglian wines. The Coppi wines are exported to many countries. The Siniscalco primitivo is a medium-body-style selection. Produced in stainless steel tanks, it shows us a fresh vibrant acidity backed by notes of blackberries, raspberries and plums. It’s a great match for lamb chops, baked pork tenderloin, sausage with broccoli rabe and white beans. Less than $20.
Varvaglione 12 & Mezzo primitivo. Varvaglione has been making wine for more than 100 years, across four generations. It is also one of the biggest wineries in Puglia. The winery team maintains its focus of traditional methods while also introducing new technology. They sell their wines locally in Puglia, as well as in more than 60 countries. Made with organic grapes, this primitivo displays its characteristic color of violet and deep red. The taste profile is of blackberries married with hints of nutmeg spice, cocoa and vanilla. The wine maintains its balance from its time in stainless steel tanks. The winery does not use any oak treatment. Its food pairings include pasta with meat sauce, rich creamy Italian cheeses, and grilled vegetables with fresh diced tomatoes. Less than $20.
Jessica Norris Granatiero is the founder of The Savory Grape, a wine, beer and spirits shop in East Greenwich. She can be reached through her website, www.jessicagranatiero.com or by email at jessica@thesavorygrape.com.
