Bob Burke, the dean of Providence restaurateurs, owns Pot au Feu, a beloved French bistro that has been open for 50 years.
Upon reading that reference, he is likely to brandish that famous saber he keeps on hand at the restaurant to expertly open fine Champagne to the delight of his legions of fans and foodies worldwide.
In a freewheeling interview, he made some points that were just as refreshing and effervescent.
As it is explained on the Pot au Feu menu: “We are old school - if you are looking for the newest, latest, “next big trend” in food we are definitely not a place you should choose to be dining.”
In his analysis of the narrative that predominates the review platform, Burke observes that his traditional, old world, “old school” approach to hospitality does not meet the pre-determined expectations of those who would appear to be more interested in their own point of view than the rewarding experience of dining out. This puts him at an automatic disadvantage at the hands of those who put a greater importance on the number of “clicks,” “likes” and the other measured devices that tweak the algorithms of such sites and create an impression of success.
Burke calls this activity “the passion for writing about disappointment.”
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SHARP TOUCH: Bob Burke, owner of Pot au Feu in Providence, with the saber he uses to open bottles of Champagne.
PBN FILE PHOTO/
RUPERT WHITELEY[/caption]
There also seems to be a disconnect lately between the expectations of some in the business, some observers and would-be advisers to the food service business, and those who continue to dine out regularly. It is often expressed that the hardships experienced by some business owners are some type of existential crisis and not due to bad business practices or missteps.
Burke says the first place to look is the customer, the guest who did nothing less than to save the restaurant industry during the dark days of the COVID-19 pandemic. They reached out with generosity, extra gratuities and overordering to keep their favorite place from going under.
As Burke points out, guests are aware when they have not visited for a long period of time. When they mention it and, in many cases, apologize for it, he tells them, “[To make up for it], just be sure you come in three extra times between now and New Year’s!”
Beyond that mutual expression of good will, he says, there should be no expectation that the customer is obligated to bring something additional to the table nor feel guilty or in any way bear responsibility to provide additional economic support.
“We come to the table with full glasses, not with a tin cup,” Burke said.
Nov. 16, the third Thursday of the month, is the day when, by French law, the new release of the Beaujolais wine is allowed. The occasion has become somewhat larger than life over the years thanks to the relentless promotion of the late Georges Duboeuf.
This year, Duboeuf’s son, Franck, who has continued the tradition of delivering the first ceremonial barrel and bottles to select capitals around the world, will be making an appearance at Pot au Feu with the new vintage. Although it is not Champagne, Burke’s saber is likely to be at the ready to ceremonially open the first bottle.
“Dining Out With Bruce Newbury,” syndicated weekly on radio, can be heard in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont and Indiana. Contact Bruce at bruce@brucenewbury.com.
